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Routes in Paisano Buttress

Burnt Offering S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Cro-Magnon S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
If S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Paisano Direct S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Sean Leary, Justin Sommers
Page Views: 826 total, 20/month
Shared By: Lurker on Jun 30, 2014
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The best route at the Aretes? For that matter, maybe the best route in northwestern California? Get on this thing and decide for yourself!

Long, steep, devious, and unrelenting. A few cruxes, with a lot of difficult climbing in-between. The first comes about 1/3 of the way up pulling past a couple of small pockets into a gaston. The second one involves moving left and around a bulge, out of a good pinch into some underclings/gastons. Third crux is a slightly scary mantle to the anchors. Full-value route on beautiful blue stone.

Protection

Fixed draws, lower-off anchors.

Location

Climbs the shallow dihedral/bulges to the left of a large alcove.

Photos

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