5.10a R,
Trad, 2 pitches,
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
FA: Rick Sumner, Steve Miller (1981)
California
> Lake Tahoe
> Highway 50 Corr…
> Lover's Leap
> Main Formation
> E Wall
Access Issue: 2023 Raptor Closure at Lover's Leap
Details
ATTN CLIMBERS: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap From July 7 – August 12, 2023 Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include: • The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches • The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left). info@norcalcrags.org
Description
Between the lines is like sport climbing on gear. There are runnouts but they are rarely harder than 5.6. Begin climbing up the face between East Crack and Bears Reach. Decent protection can be found along the way with moderate runnouts here and there. Belay at a two bolt anchor.
Pitch two climbs up a bit harder terrain to a short section of 5.10 below a very thin, short vertical crack that can be protected with micro offset wires. Pull the thin lieback mantle to easier terrain and up to bushy ledge to join the masses.