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Routes in L'Aiguille

Belzébuth T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bisbille T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Face Nord T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Face Ouest T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Face Ouest directe T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fatman's Misery T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
L'Aiguille T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Lavallée directe (var) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Le Bidoule T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Le Surplomb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Midnight Express T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Ochra T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Super Dupont T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad
FA: Red Austin, 1947
Page Views: 170 total · 3/month
Shared By: Simon Marchand on Jun 30, 2014
Admins: Luc-514

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Access Issue: Site access fees - Frais d'accès Details

Description

Starting from the ledge easily accessed from the "Cheminée" route, go staight up to a large horizontal crack, move left of the arete, then back up to the summit.

Careful, beginning of the climb is on a slab where the only protection easily installed will be a "00 Mastercam". It's a bit far to reach even for someone tall and the previous pro will be far from you. From the horizontal crack, protection is correct and easy, but bring long slings to reduce the drag from zigzagging to left and back to the summit.

Location

Start by climbing up the obvious "Cheminée" route left of Fatman's Misery. The route starts from the ledge, where 2 bolted anchors are located.

Protection

On the top are bolted anchors and chain allowing to rap down on either side of the "Aiguille" or to set up top ropes.

Photos

Luc-514
Montreal, Quebec
Luc-514   Montreal, Quebec  
You can also set two nuts in opposition in the horizontal crack.
going left and up from there is 5.5, right and up is 5.9, straight up is 5.10ish. Jul 30, 2018

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