Type: Trad
FA: Red Austin, 1947
Page Views: 187 total · 3/month
Shared By: Simon Marchand on Jun 30, 2014
Admins: Luc-514

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Site access fees - Frais d'accès Details

Description

Starting from the ledge easily accessed from the "Cheminée" route, go staight up to a large horizontal crack, move left of the arete, then back up to the summit.

Careful, beginning of the climb is on a slab where the only protection easily installed will be a "00 Mastercam". It's a bit far to reach even for someone tall and the previous pro will be far from you. From the horizontal crack, protection is correct and easy, but bring long slings to reduce the drag from zigzagging to left and back to the summit.

Location

Start by climbing up the obvious "Cheminée" route left of Fatman's Misery. The route starts from the ledge, where 2 bolted anchors are located.

Protection

On the top are bolted anchors and chain allowing to rap down on either side of the "Aiguille" or to set up top ropes.

Photos

Luc-514
Montreal, Quebec
Luc-514   Montreal, Quebec  
You can also set two nuts in opposition in the horizontal crack.
going left and up from there is 5.5, right and up is 5.9, straight up is 5.10ish. Jul 30, 2018