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Routes in A. Shelter 1 Bluff

Barnes Overhang TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bulge, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Camel's Hump S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
City Limits T,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b X
Crackpot T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Dead Dog T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Diagonal Direct S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Dim View T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Double Barrel T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Drunkard's Crack T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Easy Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Full Moon Foot Dance V1 5 X
George's Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Georges Nose T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Graves T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Gully, The S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hip Pocket S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Idiot, The TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jill's T,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Joe's Variation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Layback Hump Linkup S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Makanda Layback S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Monkey Moves S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nowhere S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Open Book Direct T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Poison Ivy Center T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Poison Ivy Right T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Rappellers' Demise T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Return to Forever "Classic" V3-4 6A+
Right Side Route S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Shake and Bake TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shotgun T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Smooth City S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Standing On Air S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Step Ladder S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Tempura Tour T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tempura Tour Complete T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Thackery's Wackery V4 6B
Walk Up TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 6 pitches
FA: Craig Barnes, Gene Charleton 1974
Page Views: 1,229 total · 28/month
Shared By: Dave Hug on Jun 30, 2014
Admins: Dave Hug

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Description

This is the grand traverse that lets one venture across the Shelter 1 Bluff line. This route allows you to climb high above the grassy field below and avoids the harder sections underneath the overhang. A must for anyone desiring to explore the vertical sphere of the bluff. Absolute Classic!

Location

Pitch 1: Climb the Makanda Layback to the safety bolt, "give the old bolt a spin for good luck" and rig a belay backed up with a small nut.

Pitch 2: Traverse left through the Open Book gully and continue to the "jug chair" above Dim View and Jills. Than rig a belay.

Pitch 3: From here many options appear. Currently due to vegetation, most people climb straight up and finish from here, but depending on the time of year other variations may seem possible.

First Option: go either up or down 10-15 feet and traverse leftward into the Poison Ivy gully. From there climb nearly to the top and traverse leftward all the way to the Chimney in the woods. From there rig a hanging belay, followed by toping out.

Scary Option: (5.9) From the chimney traverse all the way to Georges as a 4th pitch. John Payne had to blindly place a Friend at his feet for the only "worthy" gear.

Protection

Standard traditional rack, tri-cams, stoppers, slings.
Dave Hug
Carbondale, Illinois
 
Dave Hug   Carbondale, Illinois  
 
vimeo.com/16910796

Classic traverse Sep 7, 2014

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