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Routes in Middle Wall

A Bomb, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Black Napkins S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Philo Beddo S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Route Right of Black Napkins S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
WoodPin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: Perlman, Sylvester
Page Views: 844 total, 20/month
Shared By: Tyson Waldron on Jun 29, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Onsight Beta

Perhaps the most aesthetic climb at the Center Wall, "The A Bomb" will catch any trad climber's eye. The line follows a beautiful jam crack that zigs & zags separating vivid orange granite from its dark, ominous, and water-streaked counterpart.

The A Bomb is an excellent route that tests the full gamut of requisite trad climbing skills, and should not be skipped by those that climb .10+

Flash Beta

The A Bomb starts up some 5.easy sinker jams and then traverses along a walk-able ledge to the main line. Sling this real long or solo it.

From here, you will find excellent fists, but eventually the crack becomes a bit of a squeeze chimney. I'm no OW climber, and thought it was physical, but technically easy. Exiting the pod felt like the crux of this section. Takes #3 to #5 with a bomber nut or .3 cam placement near the pod.

Conquering the bottom section has warmed you up for the sustained traversing hands section to follow, as the crack lasers out left about 15 feet. With only one foot available to set in the jam crack, this traverse is very pumpy, so move swiftly! Perfect #2 and #3 hands.

The crack then juts back right, & you get a much needed foot for your left resulting in a decent rest... just a jug rail to finish, right?

Well, if this was at the bottom, it might feel that way. If you are mortal, you will no doubt be feeling the last few sections. This last traversing crack, just doesn't feel quite as cozy as it should. The feet are there, but they aren't ledges, more like semi-positive smears, and the glacially-polished granite feels like it could spit you at any moment. Another pumpy section. Takes .4 to .75

Location

Center Wall, right end. Striking line that will be hard to miss by climbing types.

Protection

Rack to #5. Triples in #2 or #3 would be nice to have.

Using a second #4 BD instead of #5 was quite tipped out for me (exiting the wide part of the route). I also had an old school Wild Country #5 that fit much better (more like a #4.5) A new #5 BD should fit here as well, which is why I've listed rack to #5. Double #4 works in a pinch, I just don't love seeing my pro tipped, even if it is a big honkin' #4... Double #4 and a #5 would be overkill.

Photos

Tyson Waldron
Reno, NV
 
Tyson Waldron   Reno, NV
 
This route is in need of two quick links (anchor is two hangers with tat and rap ring). May be wise to bring your own cord or webbing for the rap until this gets added, or better yet if you read this and plan to send, bring the fixed gear and do this route a huge favor! Jun 30, 2014