Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 500 total · 8/month
Shared By: L. Von Dommelheimer on Jun 29, 2014
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

You & This Route


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Description

This route is the ornery brother of Mr. Bill. Climb good chicken heads using a crack to the left with small gear and a few good finger locks. Be prepared to sling some knobs!

Location

This route begins just up and around the corner of buttress Mr. Bill is on. In begins to the right of a nasty alder tangle on a big flake then traverses left over the biggest chicken heads in the world to a a bolt over a small roof. There is some dialogue about the beginning of this route. The right start may be a variation. The direct line begins on the left of the alders and climbs the crack direct skipping the bolt on the right (which may belong to a different climb) The grades for either line remain the same, and both should be considered serious leads, with very real potential for injury in a fall.

Protection

Gear: very small to .5 inches, heavy on very small gear, I'd bring your brassies and a good head. There is 1 1/4 inch bolt for the right hand variation, it might hold body weight, but it might not. Slings for chicken heads. Either climb up over the grass for a two bolt anchor, or traverse left to the anchor shared with Mr. Bill.

Photos