Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 310 total · 6/month
Shared By: L. Von Dommelheimer on Jun 29, 2014
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

You & This Route

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This route is another good spicy slab climb. It provides good training for Tuolumne. It can be linked into a single mega pitch although rope drag becomes a factor on delicate moves high on the route.

P1: 5.7, climb the slabby corner to the right of Born to be Mild, head towards a bolt at the steepest section. Clip the bolt and head left to the anchor.

P2: 5.8, climb right past a single bolt to small/medium gear. The route goes into a large slabby corner, this corner is dirty bring a nut tool for cleaning place lots of gear in the crack before the big wide corner. This is the R rated pitch, be prepared for 30+ foot run outs.


Just to the right of Born to be mild, and to the left of Thin as ice.


gear to 1 inch (lots of stoppers), 3 bolts. 2 bolt anchor shared with "Born to be Mild" and a two bolt chain anchor.


A long section of the first pitch seems to be perpetually wet... Aug 9, 2015
C. Williams
the Climber Cave
  5.8 PG13
C. Williams   the Climber Cave
  5.8 PG13
The upper crack and corner can also be quite damp. Nothing some slab mastery or stemming can't take care of. If you are feeling a bit run out at the top there is a chopped 1/4" bolt that can be slung with a small stopper. Sep 18, 2016
L. Von Dommelheimer
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
slinging the bolt probably makes this more PG-13 than R. Sep 19, 2016