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Earth First

5.9+, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 1.7 from 59 votes
FA: Greg Hand & PH, 4/22/2014
Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > E Colfax
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work DetailsDrop down

Description

Climb the intimidating looking, overhanging dihedral on big holds with the crux at the 4th bolt. Easy climbing leads left to a slabby finish. An alternate finish at a similar grade (First Planet) can be found by climbing to the right to finish on Planet Earth. This is quite good.

Location

Begin 20 feet right of Heaven & Earth at a left-facing dihedral.

Protection

8 bolts to 2 Fixe rings.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

At the crux.
[Hide Photo] At the crux.
Wasps' nest near 5th bolt.
[Hide Photo] Wasps' nest near 5th bolt.
Paul at the start of Earth First.
[Hide Photo] Paul at the start of Earth First.
Rope on the route.<br>
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Note: go to the higher anchor? I've done it both ways.
[Hide Photo] Rope on the route. Note: go to the higher anchor? I've done it both ways.
Earth First line.
[Hide Photo] Earth First line.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Sarah Meiser
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Be careful belaying. There is a section of bad rock on the rap/lower line (not the climb itself). I spotted & trundled a basketball+ size rock, and there is more junk breaking off. Oct 27, 2014
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] We did not find any loose rock today. We did the First Planet finish, and I think it is easier than the other finish (which I did in the past). Nov 9, 2014
goingUp
over here
 
[Hide Comment] The trail and area for belayer to stand suck here (loose). Be careful. May 29, 2015
Noah Yetter
Lakewood, CO
[Hide Comment] Echoing other comments, the belay area here is VERY dangerous. It's steep, there are few solid rocks to stand on, and many of the loose rocks are large and could easily cause a rockslide if dislodged. Catching a lead fall here is potentially hazardous to everyone standing downhill. Jul 13, 2015
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
  5.9
[Hide Comment] There is a wasp nest just right of the 5th bolt. Those sensitive, beware! Jul 15, 2015
[Hide Comment] Lowering a climber can shred the rope. A lot of sharp rock lies below the anchors. After reaching the anchor, the climber should rappel. Jul 17, 2015
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] If you use the Earth First anchors (2 Fixe rings), there is no rope shredding problem. The Planet Earth anchors could cause a problem, but there you are on a big ledge. Jul 18, 2015
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] The wasp nest has been removed. Jul 20, 2015
WF WF51
 
[Hide Comment] Worst route at the cliff. Aug 29, 2022