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Hot Tuna
V5,
Boulder, 35 ft (11 m),
Avg: 3.8 from 13
votes
FA: Paul Neal, Ed Ehrenfeldt, Dick Shockley
California
> Los Angeles Basin
> Stoney Point
> Hot Tuna Buttress
Access Issue: RAIN & WET ROCK
Details
Stoney Point sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many gyms in the area if you need a fix!
Description
A LONG traverse under a roof on slopey sandstone. Start is easy-ish moves that get you pumped before some hard slopers, then some power moves around a corner, then some LONG stretches or small crimps to a crux final move after 35ft of "roof" traverse - Good times.
Location
In the cave at the base of Hot Tuna buttress. Goes from obvious break at left end of wall to face on right where it goes vertical and up into a corner.
Protection
Pads and spotters to move them, but you can step off any time.
![The most desperate rest I've ever taken hahahaha]()
[Hide Photo] The most desperate rest I've ever taken hahahaha
![I'll admit my entire left leg was sore for 3 days afterward]()
[Hide Photo] I'll admit my entire left leg was sore for 3 days afterward
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