Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 312 total · 6/month
Shared By: Deaun Schovajsa on Jun 27, 2014
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route


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Description

This route fires the center of the west face and is immediately left of Loch Ness. The bolts leading up to the steep scoop are very run out, but can be supplemented with a few small cams in horizontal seams between the bolts. At the beginning of the steep scoop, the climb angles up and slightly left through a thin overhanging crux on small crimps. The sequence is difficult to unlock, but the moves are great and the route is classic City of Rocks enjoyment.

Location

Located directly left of Loch Ness. The route climbs through the big overhanging dish of featureless looking rock.

Protection

Bolts and a few small cams 3/8" to 1/2" to place between the first few bolts. Chain anchors on top.

Photos

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Original bolts + anchor replaced with 1/2" SS in 2018. 24" runner recommended just below roof, I had to place the new bolt in a inset panel due to rock quality. Rebolted in cooperation with the NPS, Climbing Resource Advisory Group (CRAG) and the ASCA. Tools provided by The Access Fund, all hardware courtesy of the ASCA. Consider a donation @ safeclimbing.org Jun 28, 2018