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Routes in One Of These Days Buttress

Bush League T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
King Diamond T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Little Miss Manners T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Livin' A Dream S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
One Of These Days T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pictures of Me T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Al Swanson, Paul Crawford, Banny Root, 1988
Page Views: 218 total, 5/month
Shared By: Colonel Mustard on Jun 26, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is a varied crack/face climb emphasizing flared finger jams. There are several 5.11b cruxes and the climbing is generally sustained in nature. The route may be fairly spicy on lead, but I suspect the leader may be at risk of big but safe falls in several sections, rather than serious bodily harm. The start seems like it would be "head's up" on lead, however. I will update the description once I lead.

This is a quality line, deserving some more of the traffic that its much more popular neighbor to the left understandably takes.

Location

This route pursues the thin crack to the right of One of these Days, staying right around the OOTD main face into the dihedral. There is a second pitch that is said to turn the roof on the right, but I did not climb this to describe.

Protection

nuts; finger-sized -> 2"-3" cams; one piton; to chains with Fixe-style carabiner anchors

Photos

Drew Wigington
SLT, Ca
Drew Wigington   SLT, Ca
Piton popped out just so everyone knows. Oct 3, 2016