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Routes in Creekside Cliff

Black Lung T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Church Camp Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Consumer Culture T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dreadful Lock T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Great Barrier Reef T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
IXT T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
KS T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Marital Bliss T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Marital Bliss Var. S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mental Merger S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mind Riot T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Murder T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Pablo Picasso Was Never Called An Asshole T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Pace or Race T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Red Road S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rope Eater Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rope Eater Roof S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shakti T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stoned Monkeys T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Threshold T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown 1 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Voyager, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 53 total, 1/month
Shared By: Nick Weicht on Jun 25, 2014
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Description

Belay from a large dirt ledge with little brush and climb the first half of Pablo Picasso Was Never Called An Asshole. This route starts on a couple boulders that make up a ledge. The beginning of the route is a bit runnout with marginal gear opportunity. Climb on dark rock over two small overhangs to a bolt with two chain links 20' high. The second bolt/chain combo is three feet above the first clip. Keep climbing stright up the arete and on to the anchor on another runnout section.

Location

Picasso is the left most climb at the wall and is located twenty feet right of a large pine tree that sits on top of the cliff.

Protection

2 Bolts, Gear to 1", 2 Bolt Anchor

Photos

L. Von Dommelheimer
Anchorage
  5.10 R
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
  5.10 R
there is a move near the bottom before you get gear that is really, really scary. Bad gear until the bolts. May 8, 2016