Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Jason Halladay, Walt Whetham, Allison Fritz
Page Views: 332 total · 6/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Jun 24, 2014
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Unfortunately inconsistent in difficulty but nice movement on good rock mostly makes up for the change in difficulty.
Stick clip the high first bolt (and clip the belayer's end of the rope through the belay/directional bolt down low) and crank bouldery V4 moves for twelve feet finishing with a big move to a fantastic jug at fifteen feet up. Powerful moves lead to stemming in a corner. Above that, thinner but easier face climbing leads to the shared anchor with Hypnagogic Jerk

Location

Right-most route on the Sleeper. Steel lowering biners on the chain anchor.

Protection

Four bolts to a shared anchor with Hypnagogic Jerk. A belayer directional bolt down low keeps the rope out of the climber's crotch for the bouldery crux at 12' up.

Photos

Bill Czajkowski
Albuquerque, NM
Bill Czajkowski   Albuquerque, NM
Boulder problem at the bottom seems harder than any move on Hypnagogic Jerk. May 24, 2015
Definitely a couple of significantly harder moves than Hypnagogic Jerk on a series of sharp crimps early in this route. May 23, 2017