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Routes in Science Friction

1993: A Face Odyssey T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Bits T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pub Draught Guinness T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scar Trek T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Short Timing T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, TR, Alpine, 70 ft
FA: Christina Frain and Bill Matlin
Page Views: 341 total, 8/month
Shared By: Christina Frain on Jun 24, 2014 with updates
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

The route trends up and to left. The first 3 bolts follow edges and some hidden pockets. You then access a vertical crack and there are gear placements for protection. The move towards the 4th bolt is along a horizontal seam. You then gain another vertical crack that has spots for gear placements.

Location

Park at the Crest and hike down the spur trail to the La Luz Junction. At the junction, go straight west towards Albuquerque, you'll see various climbers trails. Keep following the hill up and to the left/southwest. If you get all the way to the top of the hill, work your way south along the ridge until you find a large pine you can use as an anchor. You will need a long cordalette to set-up a rap. Do a single rope rap to the bolted anchor on a ledge, it's down an to the rappeller's left-follow the wide crack. Do another single rope rap to the base of the cliff. The start for the climb is about 50ft to the right. The climb starts 100 feet to the climbers right of 1993: A face Odyssey. The 2 bolts are clearly visible from the base.

Protection

Small cams up to a #1 BD and nuts, 4 bolts, two bolt anchor with rap ring

Photos

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