PRINT: Rock Climb Science Friction Wall, *Whitehorse Ledge

Science Friction Wall

5.11a, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),

Avg: 3.8 from 12 votes
FA: See comments below.
New Hampshire > Whitehorse Ledge > 2. S Buttress > Wonder Wall

Description

So, historically Science Friction Wall is a full-length climb up the South Buttress. However, in modern times only the 4th (crux) pitch is commonly done. Even this pitch has a complicated history with 3 separate finishes - this entry describes the most common, known as the Webster Finish.

Begin at the end of Sky Streak, opting to take the left hand finish and belay at three bolts under a small roof. Pass the roof on the right, then follow intricate climbing, clipping the (upgraded) bolts up the black streak which marks a blunt arete. A large undercling flake marks the crux - hard climbing leads to the right of the bolt line. At the end of the crux sequence, traverse right on fantastic, airy 5.10 face climbing hundreds of feet in the air. Two bolts lead to the ledge at the top of the Last Unicorn.

Location

As mentioned, in the middle of the Wonder Wall. Begin on Sky Streak, then trend left to obvious roof.

Protection

All quickdraws, 12 or so.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

P.Ross and Kim Smith on the FA of the Final pitch 1978

Such a beautiful route.

Brett starting the pitch on a perfect fall day.

Closer shot of Brett reaching.

Brett following.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Paul Ross
Keswick, Cumbria

From guide book North Conway Rock Climbs by Jerry Handren .........
P1) Doug Madara ,Alain Comeau. July 4th 1978.
P1a) Uwe Schnider ,Chris Stevens April 29 1991.
P2)Ed Webster ,Sue Patenaude Sept 1980.
P2a (first complete ascent by the direct original finish)Paul Ross, Kim Smith July 11 1978.

FFA (via direct finish P2a) Steve Larson Scott Stevenson,Dec 1991
P2b.Jim Surette Steve Larson,Harrison Decker Sept 1985 Nov 17, 2014

cjdrover
Watertown, MA

5.11a

Hi Paul - Thanks for pointing that out. When I first loaded the route I just had P4 in mind and listed the FA for that pitch. I've updated the listing, but the route entry itself could use an update describing the rest of the pitches (I haven't gotten back up there to try the rest yet). Would you like to take over the page? I think an admin can switch the ownership over to you if you'd like. -Chris

ETA: Upon review it looks the like the MP FA field does not support enough characters to properly list the entire history. Updated to reference the comments. Dec 18, 2014

Caz Drach
C'Wood, UT

EXCELLENT ROUTE! Great climbing with fun movement. Do not miss!

Beta / Route specifics:

Pitch 1 - A little spicy after the bouldery Sky Streak start, the 2nd bolt on the slab section is not immediately obvious until you're on top of it. It's an older SMC but it's there. After that break left to the next bolt and then mini roof anchor.

Pitch 2 - Count your draws. After the 10th bolt start looking right for the bolts leading to the Last Unicorn ledge (2 more), don't be like me and start heading into the 12 B/C direct finish... the traverse is superb and thoughtful May 1, 2017

Rob Albert

A couple more notes on position: the crux is hard, and the rest of the climbing is thoughtful. The traverse is easy to spot from the belay, so suss it out before you head up. You'll know you are on the 12 section if you go past it, as there is likely a lap link on the 3rd or 4th bolt above where the traverse starts. If you did the other moves, the traverse is not too hard, spicey for both leader and follower, but it is all there. If you rap, either use 2 ropes, or make sure you have a 70m. We only just made it to the sky streak belay/ rap station with our 70, and then the next rap was also right to the ends of the 70, so close that I had to hold the ropes to pull/ feed when off rap. Oct 4, 2019

Ryan DeLena
Sudbury MA / Lyndon VT

5.11a

Couple thoughts. First off, this has to be the best 5.11 in Conway. Incredible movement start to finish. We were able to rap back to the start, of sky streak in 2 raps with a 70, then we broke out a 60m tag line and rapped twice more to the bottom of the wall. We found this to be much easier than reversing the complex 4th class approach. Oct 22, 2022