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Black Cab Rarebit

5.13b/c, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 4 votes
FA: Noah Burke
Alaska > S Central Alaska > Portage > Byron Glacier Wall

Description

Once locating the first bolt, climb up a slab to a good perch on a ledge. From here punch it through some krungus sequences on small feet and handholds. From the rest ⅔ of the way up, meander back and forth across the wall until you either commit to a big reach or dyno(?!). The difficulty eases off climbing to the chains. The bolts were replaced courtesy of Todd.

Location

After crossing the stream and debris pile on the approach trail continue up valley a few hundred yards. The main wall is the lowest rock formation on the mountain and is made of a smooth, triangle shape cliff. Scramble to the base of the arete and look up to see the first bolt of Crisco Kid. 

Black Cab Rarebit is the fourth route right of Crisco Kid.

Protection

8 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Look for the bail link on bolt three to locate this slab of an open project.
[Hide Photo] Look for the bail link on bolt three to locate this slab of an open project.
This route climbs a smooth gray section of rock to the top of the cliff.
[Hide Photo] This route climbs a smooth gray section of rock to the top of the cliff.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Cato C
Anchorage
  5.13b
[Hide Comment] I added a name to this route because I think it deserves one, but I am not sure I got the FA. If others have more info on this route that would be useful. My personal take on this route is that it is a lot of 1 star climbing on 5 star rock. kinda fun.. I guess Jun 3, 2020
sasquatch
  5.13b/c
[Hide Comment] Thanks for adding the name! I would agree that the climbing is very funky and not the best. The rock is not as good as the line to the left either. Jun 4, 2020
sasquatch
  5.13b/c
[Hide Comment] Also, I spoke with Grant Walker and he bolted this route and the project to the left (spotted dick). Jun 9, 2020