Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
FA: Joe Brown et al.
Page Views: 682 total · 6/month
Shared By: Nick Russell on Jun 20, 2014
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

One of the best routes of its grade (E2 5b) on Cloggy, and a contender for the best in Wales. An exposed and intricate line right at the top of the crag. Pitch 2 is the money pitch, but the technical crux is probably on pitch 1. Best done in the morning as it catches the sun to about midday.

The start is just to the left of a small pinnacle against the wall.

P1. 5c. Climb the crack in the corner bounding the pinnacle on its left (chockstone runner low down) for about 3m before reaching left for a jug. Keep going left for about another 4m to good holds leading up to a finger crack. Continue up the crack, with hard moves to pass a bulge (a bomber wire helps confidence here) and reach a jug on the left. Haul up good holds to a stance just to the right. Good wires and spike belay.

P2. 5b. Above the stance is a corner crack. Bridge and jam up this with good wires to a bulge and pull over this, with an immediate sense of exposure, to more good gear and a jug a few metres above. Now leave the crack and follow a line of good holds to the arete on the left, arrange gear and make a traverse back right to rejoin the crack at a higher level. A few tricky (but well-protected) moves up the crack gain more good holds. Go left again to a thin sling runner on a flake on the arete, up to a small ledge and back right. A few more moves on excellent holds and you're at the top.

It sounds kinda convoluted but makes perfect sense!

Location Suggest change

The left face of the corner left of the arete of The Axe. The abseil drops you in very close to the bottom of the route. Start up the crack left of the small pinnacle.

Protection Suggest change

Lots of wires and slings. There is a (rusty) piton at the top for a belay anchor, but you're better off placing your own gear - much more reliable. Double ropes essential.


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