Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Joe Brown et al.|
|Page Views:||452 total · 5/month|
|Shared By:||Nick Russell on Jun 20, 2014|
|Admins:||Chris Owen, Euan Cameron|
The start is just to the left of a small pinnacle against the wall.
P1. 5c. Climb the crack in the corner bounding the pinnacle on its left (chockstone runner low down) for about 3m before reaching left for a jug. Keep going left for about another 4m to good holds leading up to a finger crack. Continue up the crack, with hard moves to pass a bulge (a bomber wire helps confidence here) and reach a jug on the left. Haul up good holds to a stance just to the right. Good wires and spike belay.
P2. 5b. Above the stance is a corner crack. Bridge and jam up this with good wires to a bulge and pull over this, with an immediate sense of exposure, to more good gear and a jug a few metres above. Now leave the crack and follow a line of good holds to the arete on the left, arrange gear and make a traverse back right to rejoin the crack at a higher level. A few tricky (but well-protected) moves up the crack gain more good holds. Go left again to a thin sling runner on a flake on the arete, up to a small ledge and back right. A few more moves on excellent holds and you're at the top.
It sounds kinda convoluted but makes perfect sense!