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Routes in East Buttress

Jelly Roll T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Serth T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 46 total · 1/month
Shared By: Nick Russell on Jun 20, 2014
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron

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Description [Suggest Change]

E2 5b. This climb is all about the third pitch: exposed bridging(/stemming) followed by sustained, steep jug hauling up the groove above Great Wall.

P1. 5a. The drainpipe crack (shared with November and Vember). This wide fissure immediately to the right of Great Wall is appropriately named. It is usually taking drainage, even after a week or more of dry weather. No doubt it was originally climbed by some horrendous jamming, but it is possible (and desirable) to climb it mostly on the outside, using face holds and bridging techniques. You might even manage to stay dry! After about 20m leave the main crack for a ramp on the right and follow it a good nut belay. There are two possible places: the lower requires less down-climbing to start the next pitch, while the upper has a more comfortable stance/ledge.

P2. 5b. Climb back down the ramp to where it leaves the main crack (or a line of holds trending leftwards just before this) and follow the crack up to a ledge on the left, just before it narrows. Tiptoe left along the ledge for about 4m to a (hidden) left-facing flake. Make a few tricky moves up this to gain the main ledge at the base of the upper groove.

P3. 5b. Start up the groove immediately above the stance by some excellent bridging moves, until forced onto the left wall. The rest of the pitch is very sustained climbing, up big holds and flakes (though sometimes of questionable soundness). All very exposed.

Descent is by a scramble up then right to the top of the Eastern terrace.

Location [Suggest Change]

Shares a start with November and Vember, up the drainpipe crack. This is the obvious wide crack, usually dripping, to the right of the Great Wall.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Wide stuff will take the sting out of the first pitch, but it can be adequately protected with a #3 cam and a couple of big hexes. After that, regular rack with a set of cams, nuts and slings.


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