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Routes in Byron Glacier Wall

Amway TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Astroglide S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Pudding S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crisco Kid T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crossover S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dynamo Hum S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ho Hum S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Hungry Time S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Icky Thump S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Indian Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Just One More S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Marksalot T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Open Project 5.13 S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Open Project 5.13. S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Potentially Dry S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rootbeer Float S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slip and Slide S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Slippery When Wet S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slurm S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spotted Dick S 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
Stick Shift S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Virgin Mary, Not S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Waterslide S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wetter the Better, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Project
Page Views: 560 total · 11/month
Shared By: Nick Weicht on Jun 19, 2014 with updates from sasquatch
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Description

Spotted Dick starts on a very smooth face with some tiny crimps of quartzite. Climb past white lines and three bolts to a blank, sloping face. Then figure out how to get through the next 4 bolts of insanely hard climbing with sections up to V9/10 in difficulty. Work your way past some small mossy moves on the upper section. This route is well protected with clean falls. This route can remain wet during the spring melting season or long after a heavy rain. 

Location

After crossing the stream and debris pile on the approach trail continue up valley a few hundred yards. The main wall is the lowest rock formation on the mountain and is made of a smooth, triangle shape cliff. Scramble to the base of the arete and look up to see the first bolt of Crisco Kid. Walk right along the base of the rock to the third route right of Crisco Kid. It starts up a large stain of white quartzite on this mostly gray section of the wall. 

Protection

8 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

Photos

sasquatch
  5.14
sasquatch  
  5.14
Has anyone been on this?

I got on it yesterday, and if this is 12b then we need to regrade all of southcentral sport climbing. Aug 7, 2015
C. Williams
the Climber Cave
C. Williams   the Climber Cave
Tried it on tr last summer. Complete shut down after the third bolt. I figured it was my weak Kung-fu. Kinda blank up there. Aug 7, 2015
sasquatch
  5.14
sasquatch  
  5.14
I managed to all the moves but 1, and I'm 99% sure I can do that move as well. Putting it all together is seriously hard. I thought maybe 12b/c to the 3rd bolt though :) Aug 7, 2015
sasquatch
  5.14
sasquatch  
  5.14
I do not believe this has been climbed. It multiple crux sections that are all harder than anything on the "13" project to the right of it and is at least a full number grade harder. In total this route will likely end up being in the mid to upper 5.14 range to climb in full. Jun 5, 2018

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