Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Steve Garvey, Mary Pedroetti
Page Views: 830 total · 15/month
Shared By: Nick Weicht on Jun 19, 2014
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

Crisco Kid climbs the left arete on the main wall. Smear up supper smooth rock up a well spaced bolt line. There is some blue bail tat at the second clip. From here trust your rubber on the polished face climbing that brings you to the anchor. Some small stopers after the second bolt can be used to make this route a less scarry sport adventure.

Location

After crossing the stream and debris pile on the approach trail continue up valley a few hundred yards. The main wall is the lowest rock formation on the mountain and is made of a smooth, triangle shape cliff. Scramble to the base of the arete and look up to see the first bolt of Crisco Kid.

Protection

8 bolts, stoppers, 2 bolt anchor

Photos

Long run out after the second bolt unless you brought small stoppers. We walked up around to left and avoid this. Jul 8, 2014
C. Williams
the Climber Cave
 
C. Williams   the Climber Cave
 
Protects well with rp's. Be prepared for some super whacky climbing, there are no hands! It's all feet... Sep 3, 2014
L. Von Dommelheimer
Anchorage
  5.10d
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
  5.10d
Weird. Really weird. Excellent rock. Awful bolts and small stoppers. Lots of very smooth slippery feet. There is an anchor above the first anchor that shouldn't be used, rusty button heads. Jul 4, 2015