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Routes in Byron Glacier Wall

Amway TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Astroglide S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Pudding S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crisco Kid T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crossover S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dynamo Hum S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ho Hum S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Hungry Time S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Icky Thump S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Indian Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Just One More S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Marksalot T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Open Project 5.13 S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Open Project 5.13. S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Potentially Dry S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rootbeer Float S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slip and Slide S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Slippery When Wet S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slurm S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spotted Dick S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Stick Shift S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Virgin Mary, Not S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Waterslide S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wetter the Better, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Steve Garvey, Mary Pedroetti
Page Views: 692 total, 16/month
Shared By: Nick Weicht on Jun 19, 2014
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Description

Crisco Kid climbs the left arete on the main wall. Smear up supper smooth rock up a well spaced bolt line. There is some blue bail tat at the second clip. From here trust your rubber on the polished face climbing that brings you to the anchor. Some small stopers after the second bolt can be used to make this route a less scarry sport adventure.

Location

After crossing the stream and debris pile on the approach trail continue up valley a few hundred yards. The main wall is the lowest rock formation on the mountain and is made of a smooth, triangle shape cliff. Scramble to the base of the arete and look up to see the first bolt of Crisco Kid.

Protection

8 bolts, stoppers, 2 bolt anchor

Photos

L. Von Dommelheimer
Anchorage
  5.10d
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
  5.10d
Weird. Really weird. Excellent rock. Awful bolts and small stoppers. Lots of very smooth slippery feet. There is an anchor above the first anchor that shouldn't be used, rusty button heads. Jul 4, 2015
C. Williams
the Climber Cave
 
C. Williams   the Climber Cave
 
Protects well with rp's. Be prepared for some super whacky climbing, there are no hands! It's all feet... Sep 3, 2014
Long run out after the second bolt unless you brought small stoppers. We walked up around to left and avoid this. Jul 8, 2014