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Routes in Byron Glacier Wall

Amway TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Astroglide S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Pudding S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crisco Kid T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crossover S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dynamo Hum S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ho Hum S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Hungry Time S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Icky Thump S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Indian Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Just One More S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Marksalot T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Open Project 5.13 S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Open Project 5.13. S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Potentially Dry S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rootbeer Float S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slip and Slide S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Slippery When Wet S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slurm S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spotted Dick S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Stick Shift S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Virgin Mary, Not S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Waterslide S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wetter the Better, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Pat Rinehart, Jason Moncrieff
Page Views: 63 total, 2/month
Shared By: Nick Weicht on Jun 19, 2014
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Description

Slurm starts on the lowest bolt on the cliff and climbs the slab past three hangers to a small ledge. Trend up and right along a smooth, sloping ramp up to the top of the rock for a one bolt anchor or build and anchor on alders. You can also use the top section and anchor of Dynamo Hum as an alternate finish because the two routes cross each other.


Edit from the Admin "The climbing on this route is enjoyable however some of the following things. Every single bolt except the last one has been compromised. THERE IS NO ANCHOR. You can use the anchor on the 5.11 however it was damaged in rock fall and it consists of a single chain on a bent bolt, the other bolt is sheared off. You can take it too the top and belay from alders and a sitting stance."

Keep an eye on comments to see what current route conditions look like due to the nature of this route and area.

Location

After the avalanche scramble up the large scree drainage to the left of the main wall. Slurm is located right of the small waterfall and drainage on a smooth slab face.

Protection

7 usable bolts, NO ANCHOR.

Photos

L. Von Dommelheimer
Anchorage
 
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
 
The climbing on this route is enjoyable however some of the following things. Every single bolt except the last one has been compromised. THERE IS NO ANCHOR. You can use the anchor on the 5.11 however it was damaged in rock fall and it consists of a single chain on a bent bolt, the other bolt is sheared off. You can take it too the top and belay from alders and a sitting stance. Jun 24, 2017
Nick Crews
Colorado Springs
 
Nick Crews   Colorado Springs
 
The hangar of the fourth bolt was smashed by rockfall(?) and is smushed up against the face, quasi-usable. Could be replaced. Luckily in a very easy section so you can just run it out. Also, the fifth bolt is bent by rockfall so it starts to look like a candy cane. Maybe usable? We avoided it and crossed over to Dynamo Hum. May 22, 2015