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Routes in Byron Glacier Wall

Amway TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Astroglide S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Pudding S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crisco Kid T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crossover S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dynamo Hum S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ho Hum S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Hungry Time S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Icky Thump S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Indian Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Just One More S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Marksalot T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Open Project 5.13 S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Open Project 5.13. S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Potentially Dry S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rootbeer Float S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slip and Slide S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Slippery When Wet S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slurm S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spotted Dick S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Stick Shift S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Virgin Mary, Not S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Waterslide S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wetter the Better, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: Jason Moncrieff, Pat Rinehart, Steve Cooke
Page Views: 202 total, 5/month
Shared By: Nick Weicht on Jun 19, 2014
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Description

Pitch 1
Slippery When Wet climbs up smooth, waterslideish rock on the left side of the wall. The first clip is 20' off the deck. Continue up well spaced bolts (15' apart) on glacier polished rock to complete the first eighty foot pitch.

Pitch 2
After crossing a shelf with some alders you continue up a steeper ,second face of solid, smooth rock. Climb on rounded holds and small ledges for some very enjoyable moves with a spectacular view. Follow the bolts up this crux pitch to a two bolt anchor and do a double rap to get back to the ground.

Location

Slippery When Wet is located on the two tear rock outcropping encountered shortly after the approach avalanche. Scramble up a scree slope toward a small waterfall gully then traverse right to the wall. This area is a few hundred yards down valley from the main Byron Glacier Wall.

Protection

P1 6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor
P2 8 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

Photos

There are a few key gear placements. Stay right of the bolt line at the first pitch crux rather than a sneak around to the left. Oct 15, 2014