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Magical Mystery Tour (The Girdle/Traverse of Cannon Cliff)

5.9, Trad, Alpine, 6000 ft (1818 m), Grade IV,  Avg: 4 from 1 vote
FA: Paul Ross Henry Barber (var leads) Aug/1973
New Hampshire > Cannon Cliff > 3. Big Wall
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Description

This 6000' girdle traverse of Cannon Cliff is certainly the longest roped climb in New Hampshire , providing excellent training for alpine climbs. The first ascent (traverse)from Lakeview to top out on the The Whiney-Gilman Ridge took just under six hours.Simul-climbing was used on the easier sections such as the slabs etc..Some pleasant wild situations when crossing the big wall section of the cliff.

Climb pitches 1 to 4 of Lakeview and move left to join Wiessner's. Downclimb Wiessners to the Old Cannon Garden, follow garden to its termination to the North-South-West climb. Follow NSW and climb its difficult crack pitch. Traverse left,easy ground interrupted by difficlt bits,untill the Conn Dike is reached. Climb this gully/dike for two pitches then traverse left along a ledge system. This section is vague but it's important to work your way as far to the left as possible,then make a 165' rappel to the top of the 5th pitch of Labyrinth Wall.A tricky lead straight left brings one to the long flake that slices the entire big wall section of the cliff. Enjoy an elegant pitch across the flake passing the VMC and One Drop of Water routes and belay at its extreme left end.(top of pitch 5 of The Ghost).Climb up to the left (5.7)and join Sam's Swan Song and follow to the top of its 4th pitch. Two pitches straight left brings one to second cow pasture on top of the Duet Buttress. Down climb a gully to the first cow pasture then traverse straight left 150' to Cannonade. Reverse Cannonade to the top of the Cannonade Buttress. Traverse left from the top of the Buttress to reach The Black Dike. Climb down until a traverse line just above the base of the gully brings one to a 100' corner and crack this leads to junction with the Whitney-Gilman Ridge. Finish up this fine climb to its top.The climb has had several repeats.

Location

Cannon Mt. see guide book Secrets of the Notch by Jon Sykes

Protection

Small rack of stoppers and the odd cam.Two 165' 9m ropes were used.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Paul Ross on the 165 ' rap to find the top of pitch 5 Labyrinth Wall
[Hide Photo] Paul Ross on the 165 ' rap to find the top of pitch 5 Labyrinth Wall
Henry on the girdle
[Hide Photo] Henry on the girdle
Henry Barber traversing onto the great flake section above Labyrinth Wall and the VMC First Ascent 1973 In the background The Whitney Gilman Ridge
[Hide Photo] Henry Barber traversing onto the great flake section above Labyrinth Wall and the VMC First Ascent 1973 In the background The Whitney Gilman Ridge
The long rappel to Labyrinth Wall
[Hide Photo] The long rappel to Labyrinth Wall

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Kim Smith and I did a fairly early repeat of this grand tour of Cannon. I'd never heard of anyone else doing it, so I always hoped we might have done the second ascent, but probably not. We got a pretty early start, figuring we'd be slower than Ross and Barber, leaving the parking lot while it was still dark. We ascended the talus in a dense fog, which didn't seem to bode well, but as we got closer to the wall, that fog got brighter and brighter, until we burst through it right as we reached the base. All of Cannon was in "Alpine-glow" with a sea of orange clouds filling the valley below. We set off un-roped, and did the whole slab section that way. Even after roping up, much of the route we simul-climbed, stopping occasionally to belay the odd difficult bit. Surprisingly, most of the "Big-wall" section is a walk across a ledge which splits the middle of it. I have to confess though, just before reaching the Whitney-Gilman ridge, the route almost touches the ground. Having both climbed the W-G several times, and lured by the prospect of a much shorter return to the car, we "topped" out (bottomed out) there. This traverse isn't great because of the quality of the climbing, but it is fantastic because of the quality of the adventure. Mar 18, 2022
Paul Ross
Keswick, Cumbria
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Mike what you are saying is the Cannon slabs and sections of the central area Big Wall plus the Whitney Gilman ridge are poor quality climbs, and you cannot claim an ascent as you did not finish up five of its pitches. ... It has had quite a few ascents and in winter. However glad you liked the adventure. Mar 19, 2022
[Hide Comment] Sorry Paul. I didn't word that very clearly. I didn't mean to imply the climbing was of poor quality, far from it, just that the most outstanding feature of the route, the real draw, was the adventure of crossing that big face, with all it's route finding challenges. I should have said, "This traverse isn't JUST great because of the quality of the climbing, but is fantastic because of the quality of the adventure". I wasn't trashing it at all. I think it's magnificent, presenting challenges different from what we usually encounter on a day out at the crags, route finding and protection considerations being paramount. Traverses also require both climbers to be equally competent. I also figured someone might say we didn't actually do it if we didn't finish up the WG. So be it. As I stated, one almost touches the ground at that point, and we'd both done the ridge several times before. I admit, we were lazy in that regard. Someone did a winter ascent? That must have been a great adventure. Has anyone done the reverse traverse? That seems like a good line. One where it makes sense to begin at the actual end of the cliff, cross the WG, and finish at the top of the slabs. This would follow the natural rise of the cliff, the left end being shorter. Something you (Paul) once pointed out as desirable in an article you wrote years ago about girdle traverses. Mar 19, 2022
Paul Ross
Keswick, Cumbria
  5.9
[Hide Comment] It's OK Mike I understand .. yes the reverse girdle was done not long after I think be Tuthill and Ellms. No excuses Mike you will now have to go back ASAP and do the girdle all over again and finish up the Whiney Gillman ...the logical rising traverse .. LOL .. Cheers Mar 23, 2022
[Hide Comment] Alright Paul, I'll get right on it. Only problem is; these days I'd be more likely to wear a girdle than to climb one. Mar 31, 2022
Paul Ross
Keswick, Cumbria
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Me to Mike ... It is not a bowl of laughs getting old Mar 31, 2022