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Routes in Pirate's Cove (aka The Beach or Corona Del Mar)

Anabel V3-4 6A+
Baby Ricky T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c V-easy 3
Big Ricky T V4 6B
C.F.'s Edge Crank V2 5+ PG13
Chips Ahoy V4-5 6B+
Courtney's side V1+ 5 PG13
Crystal Clear V2 5+
Dave's Problem T V0 4
Diamond Man V4 6B
Diamond Man Dyno V1 5
Ecto the Collector V4 6B
Faith T V4-5 6B+
Fale Problem V0 4 PG13
Gather Up V0+ 4+
Green Burrito V1 5
Head Above the Stairs V1 5 R
High Over Beached Whales T V0+ 4+
Hinge Direct V4 6B
Hinge Indirect V0 4
Hinge, The 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a V1 5
Iron Man V3 6A
Italian Fall T V2+ 5+
Jelly bean V1 5
Knob City 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c V-easy 3
Layback, The 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c V-easy 3
Lieback 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c V-easy 3
Little Ricky T V2 5+
Not Even V2 5+
Not Even Chips (and reverse) V3- 6A PG13
Nowhere Man V3-4 6A+
Onion Man V1 5
Paper Boy V7 7A+
Pin Hole V0 4 PG13
Pin Scar V0 4
Pin Scar Direct V2-3 5+
Poodle Press V4 6B
Pyramid, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rib Romp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Roman Engineering V7 7A+
Sand Gully V1 5
Shark's Tooth T V4-5 6B+
Shelf, The T V0 4
Tin Man V0+ 4+
Wet Toes V1-2 5
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Type: Boulder, 11 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,043 total · 20/month
Shared By: Avery Paulson on Jun 17, 2014
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Summer climbing times restricted Details


This is a relatively easy climb . It's about 11ft high with only about 4 moves with a heal hook as your second move. All the holds can keep only 2-3 fingers in them. The start is a matched under cling then a big left hand bump to a 2 finger hole. Followed up by a high left foot heel hook and bringing your right hand to a 3 fingered ledge. Drop the heel hook and bring your right foot to a small chip by your right knee and bump again to a hight right hand 3 finger crimp. Finish it out by bumping over to right handed ledge just beyond the small shrub. Cons of this climb is it is short. It does have a second half with a over hang that is about 20ft but very dangerous and not recommended. The plus about this climb is it is good for learning foot work and smaller holds. Also there is a V0 made up as well that starts with the same first two moves and traverses around the right side.


Pirates cove on the far side by the board walk right next to the jetty sign. If you follow the south stairs down to the main parking lot and go straight towards the water and jetty entrance. Right next to the sign. Main land mark is the uneven walk way and jetty subject to high surf sign. It's directly to the right of it


It's a bouldering problem so no bolts no anchors. I recommend having a crash pad there is a large rock right behind the climb. Although a short climb and not very high it will still be very painful to land on. The type of rock is sandy rock holds are solid no worry for possible breakage.


Brad Alexander
Costa Mesa, CA
Brad Alexander   Costa Mesa, CA
Not to take the FA from you dude, but it looks like Kevin did this problem 4 years ago in many variations.… May 11, 2015
Chris Tuohino
Anaheim, CA
Chris Tuohino   Anaheim, CA
Not worth the time imo :/ Aug 24, 2018

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