Type: Boulder, 11 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,063 total · 19/month
Shared By: Avery Paulson on Jun 17, 2014
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Summer climbing times restricted Details

Description

This is a relatively easy climb . It's about 11ft high with only about 4 moves with a heal hook as your second move. All the holds can keep only 2-3 fingers in them. The start is a matched under cling then a big left hand bump to a 2 finger hole. Followed up by a high left foot heel hook and bringing your right hand to a 3 fingered ledge. Drop the heel hook and bring your right foot to a small chip by your right knee and bump again to a hight right hand 3 finger crimp. Finish it out by bumping over to right handed ledge just beyond the small shrub. Cons of this climb is it is short. It does have a second half with a over hang that is about 20ft but very dangerous and not recommended. The plus about this climb is it is good for learning foot work and smaller holds. Also there is a V0 made up as well that starts with the same first two moves and traverses around the right side.

Location

Pirates cove on the far side by the board walk right next to the jetty sign. If you follow the south stairs down to the main parking lot and go straight towards the water and jetty entrance. Right next to the sign. Main land mark is the uneven walk way and jetty subject to high surf sign. It's directly to the right of it

Protection

It's a bouldering problem so no bolts no anchors. I recommend having a crash pad there is a large rock right behind the climb. Although a short climb and not very high it will still be very painful to land on. The type of rock is sandy rock holds are solid no worry for possible breakage.

Photos

Brad Alexander
Costa Mesa, CA
Brad Alexander   Costa Mesa, CA
Not to take the FA from you dude, but it looks like Kevin did this problem 4 years ago in many variations.

youtube.com/watch?v=hLScmhJ… May 11, 2015
Chris Tuohino
Anaheim, CA
Chris Tuohino   Anaheim, CA
Not worth the time imo :/ Aug 24, 2018