Plague of Pestilence
Avg: 3.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Sport, 45 ft|
|Page Views:||854 total · 19/month|
|Shared By:||Heath Bailey on Jun 17, 2014|
|Admins:||Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
DescriptionFrom the start of Double-Blind Study use a variety of hueco holds through a V6/7 sequence to gain the face at the 1st bolt. Clip the 2nd bolt before venturing through a balancey sequence of slopers, pinches and less-than-positive holds on your way to the crux. Make a body-length left hand move out to a decent pinch on the arete from a poor one-pad half-moon pocket with the right (V8). Stay composed through a blind slap to a slopey sidepull jug left of the arete, from which you clip the 3rd and last bolt. Breath here and get ready to charge the redpoint crux. Paste the feet high and drive by with your left hand groping the coolest and worst of unlikely slopers to the finishing hand-cup jug (V5). From here, hold on briefly and you are confidently clipping the anchors on this beauty of a bouldery line!
I assign a conservative 5.13b to the route as it is in my style, but shorter climbers will find several of the hard moves to be a stretch. It could very likely be 13c. If Mainliner is 13c; however, this is not. Either way, it is a wildly aesthetic line with amazing moves on great stone. Almost the entirety of the route is opposition, and requires the climber to deadpoint not to holds but to positions. Consensus feedback is appreciated.
I opted to leave the 1st bolt high as I believe the coldest and highest friction days could very likely yield a direct start through the low portion of the arete via more big moves on bad holds. This variation would easily push the difficulty of this short route into 5.13+ consideration.