PRINT: Rock Climb Guides in a Snowbank, Southern-Western Sierra

Guides in a Snowbank

5.9, Sport, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches,

Avg: 2.9 from 16 votes
FA: Lynnea and Jerry
California > Southern-Wester… > Hwy 41: Fresno… > Fresno Dome (Wa… > Fresno Dome > c. Main Wall

Description

Dicey moves off the deck to the first bolt. Then consistent, easier climbing straight up for 3 pitches to the big ledge. Last pitch straight up the vertical headwall.

The lower 3 pitches have bolts in just the right spots, but some might consider it a little runout. Bolts on the 10a section are placed closer together.

Pitch 1 is about 140', has rap anchors.
Pitch 2 is about 140', anchors are not set up for rappel.
Pitch 3 is about 115, one bolt has quick link.
No anchor on pitch 4, sling a boulder.

After pitch 3 you reach the big ledge. You can probably finish on Fresno Flats from here if you want to avoid the headwall.

Location

First route to the right of Watership Down (the corner).

Protection

All bolted, 10 quickdraws should suffice. No need to bring trad gear other than for the final anchor (slings around a boulder are fine).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Gorgeous granite on p3, headwall of p4 above

What a spot to be!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Manderson198
Chattanooga, TN

5.10a

Climbed with Garrett. Amazingly fun four-pitch route! The first three pitches are super mellow (with the exception of a heady move before the first bolt---trust the feet). You have to trust the friction. It's awesome, and most of the rock is bomber. The last pitch is definitely the 10a pitch. A physical couple of bolts leads to a small roof. Pull that, and you're practically at the top. I'd break down the pitches as follows: 5.9, 5.7, 5.6, 5.10-.

Scramble to the top of Fresno Dome via high-4th, low-5th class moves, and a short hike. The view is great, and the descent is easy hiking.

This was a great route, and a fun taste of dome, friction climbing. The route to the right of this one looks amazing as well. Jun 3, 2015

Eli Hiss

Yahoo! Lovely climbing, runnel on the third pitch is stellar. First pitch is sporadically bolted and consistently 5.8-5.9, psychological crux. Middle two pitches are top quality 5.7 cruising with pretty consistent 12-15 foot bolt spacing. Physical crux was pulling the slight overhanging headwall boulder problem to start the fourth pitch. Definitely 5.10b for a smaller person like me (~5'6") but pretty well protected. For the top, a little alpine ability helps. Walk off is super easy. If you had to bail, a 70m would NOT quite make it. Also, if memory serves, there are no rap rings/quick links on any anchors. Oct 18, 2019