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La Vida Locomotive

5.11a, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 3.4 from 73 votes
FA: Rustin Gibson & Ricky Martin (2010)
Washington > Central-W Casca… > N Bend & Vicinity > Exit 38 > Deception Crags > Deception Wall
Warning Access Issue: All rock climbing routes on Deception Wall are CLOSED until July 15, 2024. DetailsDrop down

Description

Techy face climbing up to a nice ledge. Then pull through jugs for 4 more bolts. Originally this climb went straight up from the bolt on the ledge, bouldery, but now most people wander a bit left to a big dirty jug.

Location

Between Derailed, and Old Milwaukee. Look up for the big roof.

Protection

11 bolts (one permadraw to assist with cleaning below roof), chain anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Roof move
[Hide Photo] Roof move
Teresa chilling on the ledge before pulling the roof.
[Hide Photo] Teresa chilling on the ledge before pulling the roof.
Into the steep.<br>
[Hide Photo] Into the steep.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Redacted Redacted
Redacted
 
[Hide Comment] Recent major rock fall at the break. Route is almost certainly harder now. Makes me think twice a out getting on this section of routes again. Apr 24, 2022
CourtneyB
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] The rock fall affected the roof crux. The foot holds under the roof which used to enable the beta on the left side of the roof no longer exist. The left beta might still be possible but there's now a very loose large block that you need to stand on prior to getting onto the roof. There is a fun dynamic sequence if you go directly up from the hanging chain on the roof. Aug 1, 2022
Sage Bedell
Seattle, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Even with recent rockfall, I think the crux is still 11a and is in line in difficulty with Architect Rally and Steep Street. Fun climb! Be forewarned, this is a choss pile, and everyone should be wearing a helmet. Sep 23, 2022
Justin P
Seattle, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Super fun climb, not so sure about the beta in the 3rd picture, maybe that went prior to feet falling off at the roof. I felt like the crux wasn't getting through the roof itself but the section immediately following. Fun moves all the way up! Aug 24, 2023