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Routes in Mt. Francis

Scratch and Sniff 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M6
South East Ridge WI2
Southwest Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Mixed, Alpine, 1200 ft, 12 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Andres Marin and Clint Helander
Page Views: 1,108 total, 26/month
Shared By: clint helander on Jun 17, 2014
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park! Details


At the gateway of the East Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier, Stubbs' Buttress (a satellite peak butting out from the NW Ridge of Mount Francis) is a comparatively small feature that packs a lot of adventure. This is an easily climbable day-route from Kahiltna Base Camp.

At the base of the North Buttress, cross the 'schrund and aim for the right trending snow ramp under the first major rock band. after about 300' or so, belay under a short but steep corner with a good gear anchor that takes many cams and nuts.

The next pitch tackles the corner (10m, M6) and then one of the route's best features. Climb a widening left facing chimney with many foot holds on the left side (10m, M5/6) and belay above (60m).

Several weaknesses in the rockband above can be climbed, but the first ascent team chose a wide chimney on the right. Pumpy, thin moves lead to a vertical to slightly overhanging mixed corner and then easier terrain.

Several more pitches of varied climbing lead to a left traverse on steep and runout snow to the base of a thin corner. Look for a wide crack on the left (good fist jams) and a direct crack that takes good small/medium cams. Traverse up and right and belay under another small chimney/corner.

Easier ground leads to a runout slab. Moderate climbing (snow, mixed) takes you to the summit.

Downclimb off the summit towards the prominent ice gully and look for a nut and pin anchor in a large rock. Make three rappels on rock gear to the ice gully and then rappel on V-threads to the base.

This is an incredible route with a low commitment level and an easy approach/descent. Hopefully it will become another popular base camp classic.


East Fork of the Kahiltna. North Buttress of Mount. Francis.

From Kahiltna Base Camp, descend Heartbreak Hill and ski around the west flank of Francis. Enter the East Fork of the Kahiltna and Stubbs' Buttress will be the first feature on the right. Approximate approach time: 2 hours.


Cams to 3", nuts, pins, a few screws