Type: Trad, 40 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dan Smilkstein?
Page Views: 439 total · 8/month
Shared By: Jackie K. on Jun 16, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Climb up the slab with 2 bolts and into the obvious, double crack system above. Step right to a fixed anchor and/or continue on for a second pitch (?). P2 details are unknown.

Location

This is climber's right of Steel Nuts, left of the bolted arete. It ascends the obvious double crack system.

Protection

2 bolts, 2 #0.5s, 2 #0.75s, 1 #1 Camalot, and a 2 bolt anchor.

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Unknown 5.8 double cracks.
Unknown 5.8 double cracks.
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2 Comments

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Dustin B
Steamboat
 
Dustin B   Steamboat
 
This route was climbed long before the route 'Step Right' was installed and used to have poor protection getting into the cracks. When I climbed it years back, the cracks were home to a large bat population, and the cone of fresh guano spilling out of the crack was about 18" high. It was dusk, and while I was belaying, my partner up I counted 80+ bats leaving the crack. I don't know if Dan Smilkstein climbed it first, but I'm sure it was climbed in the '80s or '90s. Probably a better route now with some pro leading to the crack and a real anchor on the ledge. Apr 24, 2016
Dr. Dan
Steamboat Springs, CO
Dr. Dan   Steamboat Springs, CO
While I did add the bolts leading up to the cracks, they were placed as part of the Step Right route. It was climbed previously by many people including Higbee, Rusk, Varco, Gilmore. This year the bats seemed to have found a new home, and it is reasonably clean. Might have to change the name from BS (Bat Shit) Too. Jul 17, 2016