Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dick Willmott, early 60's
Page Views: 859 total · 16/month
Shared By: rocknice2 on Jun 16, 2014 with updates from Jerome St-Michel
Admins: Luc-514

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Access Issue: Site access fees - Frais d'accès Details

Description

This classic has a hard start in an awkward left facing dihedral. Climb up and over small roof. Now look for a flake on the right and climb that [easier but tricky gear] or climb the right facing corner above [variation 10b]. Finish easily in a hand crack to a bolted anchor. 100'

The Arkenstone variation is done by climbing Arkentsone which is the massive traverse across the cliff through a wide horizontal crack. At the end of the traverse, you have to finish on the face that is on your right-hand side and that has bolts on it. I think there are two (2) bolts.

Pitch 2:
Up and left is a short head-wall with another hand crack. Climb this to another anchor on a ledge and the base of 'The Crown'.

Location

About 30' left of the spectacular finger crack of Sceptre.

Protection

Micro cams up to #2 Camalot

Photos

Jerome St-Michel
Montreal, QUÉBEC
  5.10a
Jerome St-Michel   Montreal, QUÉBEC
  5.10a
There is an error in the description. The detail and topo line about the Arkenstone variation is wrong. The green line on the topo is just a section of another climb called « L’imperial ».

The Arkenstone variation is done by climbing Arkentsone which is the massive traverse across the cliff through a wide horizontal crack, and by finish on the face that is on your right-hand side and that has bolts on it. I think there are two (2) bolts.

Well the error comes from the old guidebook (p.136). They fucked up while adding the little circled (54) number. Aug 6, 2016