Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dick Willmott, early 60's
Page Views: 1,139 total · 17/month
Shared By: rocknice2 on Jun 16, 2014 with improvements by Jerome St Michel
Admins: Luc-514

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Access Issue: Site access fees - Frais d'accès Details

Description

This classic has a hard start in an awkward left facing dihedral. Climb up and over small roof. Now look for a flake on the right and climb that [easier but tricky gear] or climb the right facing corner above [variation 10b]. Finish easily in a hand crack to a bolted anchor. 100'

The Arkenstone variation is done by climbing Arkentsone which is the massive traverse across the cliff through a wide horizontal crack. At the end of the traverse, you have to finish on the face that is on your right-hand side and that has bolts on it. I think there are two (2) bolts.

Pitch 2:
Up and left is a short head-wall with another hand crack. Climb this to another anchor on a ledge and the base of 'The Crown'.

Location

About 30' left of the spectacular finger crack of Sceptre.

Protection

Micro cams up to #2 Camalot

Photos