Mountain Project Logo

Routes in 3. Impériale

Chimère T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Impériale directe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sceptre T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sortie Côté Surplomb T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Symbiose T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Éclipse T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dick Willmott, early 60's
Page Views: 735 total · 16/month
Shared By: rocknice2 on Jun 16, 2014 with updates
Admins: Luc-514

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Site access fees - Frais d'accès Details

Description

This classic has a hard start in an awkward left facing dihedral. Climb up and over small roof. Now look for a flake on the right and climb that [easier but tricky gear] or climb the right facing corner above [variation 10b]. Finish easily in a hand crack to a bolted anchor. 100'

The Arkenstone variation is done by climbing Arkentsone which is the massive traverse across the cliff through a wide horizontal crack. At the end of the traverse, you have to finish on the face that is on your right-hand side and that has bolts on it. I think there are two (2) bolts.

Pitch 2:
Up and left is a short head-wall with another hand crack. Climb this to another anchor on a ledge and the base of 'The Crown'.

Location

About 30' left of the spectacular finger crack of Sceptre.

Protection

Micro cams up to #2 Camalot

Photos

Jerome St-Michel
Montreal, QUÉBEC
Jerome St-Michel   Montreal, QUÉBEC
There is an error in the description. The detail and topo line about the Arkenstone variation is wrong. The green line on the topo is just a section of another climb called « L’imperial ».

The Arkenstone variation is done by climbing Arkentsone which is the massive traverse across the cliff through a wide horizontal crack, and by finish on the face that is on your right-hand side and that has bolts on it. I think there are two (2) bolts.

Well the error comes from the old guidebook (p.136). They fucked up while adding the little circled (54) number. Aug 6, 2016

More About Impériale directe

Printer-Friendly