Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m)
FA: Sam Slater & Bruce Thompson, July 14, 1980
Page Views: 908 total · 8/month
Shared By: Chris Hirsch on Jun 16, 2014
Admins: Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description Suggest change

This has been called "the Naked Edge of the Needles"... Which is a bit exaggerated. It is a long and varied crack system with a burly crux that makes it feel like your climbing in Eldo. Rock quality is the only thing that keeps this from being a full four stars. Ricey in some spots, dirty in others. Needs more traffic. Still recommended to the aspiring Needles climber.

FA party started with an approach pitch to the blocky, poison ivy filled , ledges. Looks not so fun. Better to scramble up the ramps from the left (SW). 4th class to the highest ledge below the white/yellow wall. Route starts on top of block at left facing corner/flake. Climb to roof/flake and step left into groove (crux). Leaving the groove is tricky and hard to protect, bring micro gear. Continue past a ledge into right facing lieback. Step right into another crack and then again to mantel onto ledge below the bulge. Follow crack through the bulge to the top. Potential for some wicked rope drag, and there isn't a great stopping point to break it up evenly into two pitches. Use long runners. Lots of options for natural belay anchor on top, save some hand sizes. Walk off the back.

Protection Suggest change

Doubles to BD #3, with one #4
Micro cams
Nuts and Rp's