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Undercling Jam

5.11a, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 1.7 from 6 votes
FA: unknown
International > Asia > Taiwan > Long Dong (Drag… > (4) Music Hall

Description

This little thing is one of the oldest routes at Long Dong, as evidenced by the ridiculous number of rusty bolt stumps. Rebolted in a rather senseless fashion...

Climb cracks back and forth across the lower buttress to a ledge. From this ledge, you can step right on a different (easy) trad variation. Otherwise, you can take the totally contrived, bouldery line up to the next ledge for two moves. The namesake undercling leads into a cruxy sidepull and a long reach out to the left. Find the knob and romp up to the ledge. And then to the next ledge.

Location

On the left side of Musical Chimney, a lone bolt line as you continue past the main Music Hall face

Protection

316 steel (2011)