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Routes in 3) The Brain

Brain Storm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Brain Teasers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brain Tweezers S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Brain Wave T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Butta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chunky Monkey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Climax Control S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Journey to the Center of the Brain T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
M.E.N.S.A. S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mono Loco S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Mulatto Serpent S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Out of Mind T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Super Whiny Bugs S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Travisty, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Whiny Bugs S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
You Want It, You Got It S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Mikey Williams
Page Views: 344 total · 7/month
Shared By: Joseph DeGaetano on Jun 15, 2014
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description [Edit]

This is the last route before you scramble up and over the little hill heading towards the Genocide area.

Although it isn't much to look at from the bottom, this 7 bolt sport climb is damn good and requires a bag of tricks to reach the anchors. This would be a proud onsight being that the climbing is deceiving and not straight forward.

Start by climbing up a detached flake to reach the first bolt and the base of the chossy roof. Clip the two roof bolts while staying as efficient as possible and be ready to engineer a powerful mantle move to establish on the face. Rest up for a second and get ready for the real climbing. Slabby ninja moves for the next three bolts guard the anchor. Suck that gut in, hope for a slight breeze, and curse the extra slice of pizza you ate last night and you might just make out better than Ole' Homer Plessy.

Location [Edit]

Just right of the classic Whiny Bugs and Komatose. Last route before the little hill.

Protection [Edit]

7 bolts and bolted anchor

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