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Routes in The Brain

Brain Storm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Brain Teasers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brain Tweezers S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Brain Wave T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Butta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chunky Monkey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Climax Control S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Journey to the Center of the Brain T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
M.E.N.S.A. S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mono Loco S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Mulatto Serpent S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Out of Mind T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Super Whiny Bugs S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Travisty, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Whiny Bugs S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
You Want It, You Got It S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Mikey Williams
Page Views: 310 total · 7/month
Shared By: Joseph DeGaetano on Jun 15, 2014
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

This is the last route before you scramble up and over the little hill heading towards the Genocide area.

Although it isn't much to look at from the bottom, this 7 bolt sport climb is damn good and requires a bag of tricks to reach the anchors. This would be a proud onsight being that the climbing is deceiving and not straight forward.

Start by climbing up a detached flake to reach the first bolt and the base of the chossy roof. Clip the two roof bolts while staying as efficient as possible and be ready to engineer a powerful mantle move to establish on the face. Rest up for a second and get ready for the real climbing. Slabby ninja moves for the next three bolts guard the anchor. Suck that gut in, hope for a slight breeze, and curse the extra slice of pizza you ate last night and you might just make out better than Ole' Homer Plessy.

Location

Just right of the classic Whiny Bugs and Komatose. Last route before the little hill.

Protection

7 bolts and bolted anchor

Photos

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