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Routes in The Dedication Area

Castaways T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Dedication T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Diss-N-Dazz T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
It's Five What? T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Move it or Lose it S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Robinson Crusoe T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Six Bolts and a Plug S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soul Survivor T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 270 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Paul Ross Joe Cote (alt leads) 1972 .FFA. Mark Hudon Mike Hartrich 1974
Page Views: 191 total, 5/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Jun 15, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

The route climbs the long left leaning dike in the center of the cliff. The bottom of the dike is just to the right of an angular buttress with a couple of sharp aretes. Soul Survivor starts to the right of this buttress up the big ,right facing with converging walls . Between climbs Right Arete and Under Toe. Ross followed the crux second pitch free.
P1). Climb the corner then exit left to a tree ledge.70' 5.7
P2). Follow the dike to the big overhang. Old bolts protect hard moves over the overhang,then follow the easier dike to the bolt anchors of Robinson Crusoe ,beside the white birch tree.100' 5.11a.
P3).Above the anchor the dike deepens into a chimney. Stem up the chimney and follow the continuation dike to the trees.100'5.8

Location

Humphreys Ledge.Dedication area.. Guide book North Conway Rock Climbs by Jerry Handren

Protection

Standard rack

Photos

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Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
I remember doing this route in the 80s with Kurt Winkler when the second pitch was still rated .9+ which, of course, was nuts. The move over the overlap is tricky indeed and the old quarter-inchers were not inspiring (less so for KW, who was leading). Sep 17, 2015
Someone would do this route and the climbing community a great service if they cleaned pitch 2 and replaced the crux bolt. The climbing is rather good and when passing the ledge on west side road, it is THE direct line on the cliff. Sep 21, 2014
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
P2 was formerly the hardest 5.9 in NH....those bolts must be really bad by now. Jun 15, 2014