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Routes in Lower Mount Scott

Blank Check S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Brush Hog T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Crack Pot T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Final Exit S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Full Cavity Search T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Anxiety T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Homie Don't Play That (Original Name) aka Brirthday Boy T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Homie climber T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Layaway Plan S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mr. Clean T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pablo T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Prickly Pear T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Repeat After Me S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Sex Talk TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slopey Slappy V1-2 5
Starter Marriage T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Stole Your Face S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tea Cup Arete T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Teacup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Leila Cranford
Page Views: 244 total · 6/month
Shared By: Kevin Earls on Jun 13, 2014
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Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

This is the dihedral left of Birthday Boy. The route starts out with normal dihedral cracks for a few feet and then about 10 feet of a chimney which is about a body width wide and deep. The chimney spits you out and you pull up onto a small ledge about half way up the route. Watch out for the Bull Nettle plant that will irritate your skin if you come into contact. The hard stuff is over and you can cruise up to the top placing gear as you feel the need. No anchors, but plenty of gear placements for a trad anchor.

Location

This is in the corner left of Birthday Boy and High Anxiety on Lower Mt Scott.

Protection

The bottom half will take some big pro (3-5") if you want to place it. Right off the deck is a 4" placement as you stem up into the chimney. A normal rack of up to 3" will get you up very easily.

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Clay Studer
Dallas, TX
  5.7 PG13
Clay Studer   Dallas, TX
  5.7 PG13
This route has somewhat poor rock quality and this can make it difficult to protect well at times. Also, about half way up and above the chimney is a nice place for a nut in a small cut in the rock. The crack line tends to pull the rope toward this cut and the rope will get stuck creating very bad rope drag that could be dangerous. Sep 16, 2015