5.12,
Trad,
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
FA: Reg Smart, David Smart, Quinton Bennet
International
> N America
> Canada
> Ontario
> Ontario S Bould…
> Lion's Head
> Banshee Area
Access Issue: From the OAC website, climbing at Lion's Head is "Tolerated: Climbing access not formally permitted, but informally accepted. Tread lightly."
Details
From the OAC website, climbing at Lion's Head is "Tolerated as a non-conforming use of the park. Highly sensitive area. Strive for minimal impact and low profile. All fixed protection to be camouflaged. Do not disturb the cottagers. Approach via Bruce Trail entrance. Good mix of sport and trad, starting at higher grades mostly 5.10 and above. Some routes have anchors. Some routes start from ground, others from hanging belay. Approach is from top; rap in. Extremely complex the first visit."
Description
The namesake of the cliff for a reason, this great trad line takes a thin crack to some face climbing, finally finishing with a hand crack to the top of the cliff. There is a painted "B" at the top of the cliff to mark the top of this climb.
Protection
Fingers and hand sized gear. There may be a pin and/or a bolt after the finger crack at the start of the face climbing.
Access Issue: From the OAC website, climbing at Lion's Head is "Tolerated: Climbing access not formally permitted, but informally accepted. Tread lightly."
Details
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