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Routes in North Noddle Head (First Noddle Head)

Beau Knows T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Original Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sounds of a Desperate Man T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: CMC climbers in the 1950s
Page Views: 74 total, 2/month
Shared By: Jay Eggleston on Jun 12, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This climb mainly goes up a crack formed by a flake. The crack varies in size but takes good gear. There is a ledge below the last pitch which is the crux. The hardest move involves a handjam and a mantel. If this crack did not involve an hour hike, it might be popular, but the approach makes the climb hardly worth the effort. You also don't reach the summit, but it looks possible to follow a crack around to the west to do the last pitch of Sounds of a Desperate Man if you wish to summit.

Location

This is located on the east face of the First Noddle Head. It goes up the center of the main face and is to the left of the dual wide cracks which form a "v". Most of the climb follows a crack formed by a flake, but at the bottom, there are lots of bushes. I started to the left in a chimney to access the main crack. To get down Haas, Shneider, and Weinhold say to work off to the north. I rappelled the last pitch, going to the east, before scrambling down to the north.

Protection

Standard rack up to a #4 Camalot. There are some old fixed pitons. I left webbing on a flake to rap the last pitch.

Photos

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