Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Shapeshifter Wall

Cobble Reality S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Power Trip S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Darren Knezek
Page Views: 691 total, 17/month
Shared By: Spencer Weiler on Jun 12, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A unique climb for sure. A "girdle Traverse" according to DK. Start on the far right side of the roof, scurry up the easy slab, then start the long trip out left, following the obvious crack weakness, often making more sidewards progress than vertical. The crux is a fairly bouldery long reach straight left to a good pocket off a vertical shallow sidepull pocket. Once you get past this its more or less pretty great holds the rest of the way, though the feet suck so you have to decided whether to campus it or heel hook. Once you pull the final roof an easy slab leads to the anchors.

I found it tough to rest anywhere as its pretty sustained. A little dirty but hopefully it will clean up with more traffic. Don't fall anywhere between bolts or you'll be "boinging" the juice out of your arms.

I personally found it quite stiff for the grade.

Location

Start on the far right side of the roof at same first bolt as "cobble reality" and then start climbing straight left.

Protection

All bolts. Well bolted. Mandatory following on TR to clean.

Photos

lech
  5.12b
lech  
  5.12b
The chains are around the corner and up a ways into the 5.6 slab. The sad thing is that the last 15 ft of climbing only adds rope drag to the route. Jun 17, 2017
Heads up I blew a bolt on this route I think it was bolt 7, working on replacing it
May 8, 2017