Avg: 2.5 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Ken Adam, Olive Dyer, Morgan Harris, Oct 1935|
|Page Views:||3,286 total · 46/month|
|Shared By:||Doug Hemken on Jun 12, 2014|
|Admins:||M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Pitch One - start at the oak with five trunks. Chimney past two chockstone/steps, then wander up to a notch in the ridgeline.
Pitch Two - head up the shattered chimney. There is (in 2014) an ok fixed cam and a good piton on this pitch, and a fair amount of loose rock laying on horizontal surfaces. Near the top is a two-bolt anchor: two ancient button heads with aluminum foil hangers. We continued up to the ledge just above, where you are finally on the ridgeline and have great views of El Cap.
Pitch Three - up a short step, traverse along the ridgeline, then up another step with an appealing crack running up its nose. (An old bail anchor is out left from here.) At the top of the step go past a large pine and belay at the next convenient boulders, or continue out along the ridge a ways (either option works, it just depends on how much you are feeling the rope drag).
Pitch Four - continue along the ridgeline, passing another step on the left (gear here is a little sparse for the leader, but don't forget to back-protect your second or he will chew you out!). At the final summit block continue traversing around to the right - it looks totally improbable. Where it looks like everything ends, peak around the corner and spy the crow's nest! Belay there, there is great gear plus a good fixed pin.
Pitch Five - the final 15-20 feet continues circling around the summit block - you can either go up or down here, both work. At the southwest corner of the summit you will find an easy path to the final perch, just south of the summit.
Descent - a 30 meter rappel will get you down to the saddle between Church Tower and Lower Spire (you might need to replace the slings around the summit block). From there one 60 meter rap or two 30 meter raps to the east will land you on the ground, not far from where you started. Some consider this final rap to be 4th class, but there is a lot of loose dirt and leaves to deal with.