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Routes in Sunshine Ridge

Draino T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Exotic Dancer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fist Sucker S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hey Operator S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Huge Left Faceing Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Last Call S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mayday S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plebeian Paradise S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Poser S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Purple Rain S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Road Rash T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Road Soda S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Road Warrior S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sex on the Rocks S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sunshine Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Thrombosis S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unforgiven, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Unknown 1 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 5.8+ "Blue Hanger Route" T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Whajacallit T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
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Type: Trad, 350 ft, Grade II
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 430 total · 8/month
Shared By: L. Von Dommelheimer on Jun 11, 2014
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

You & This Route

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Are there three parties already on Sunshine Ridge? Occasionally this is the case, have no fear. A second route exists. While it is shorter, and the rock quality suffers at the bottom, the upper pitches are actually almost has good as those on sunshine. This route likely has a longer history, it has (or had) several old military style ring pitons on it although they are slowly disappearing or have been replaced by bolts.

Access pitches: Anything around Mayday, Thrombosis gully climbs, Although you could also scramble up Thrombosis gully

Pitch 1: 5.6 climb rotten rock trending left, there was a fixed ring piton in this section. belay off the a large ledge, to the left of the second sawed off telephone pole located in a nice alcove (the first sawed off pole is just above the anchor on Mayday. This is about 50ft from Sunshine Ridge. This line starts another 50-100 ft to the left of this. Find a section that looks like the rock is good, and follow the highest rock quality. Keep your eyes on the look out for bolts. The next two pitches are at least as high quality as the pitches on sunshine ridge.

Pitch 2: 5.8+ Climb some rotten rock past one (blue) hanger 5/16 button head bolt, the rock quality improves here. follow the crack system to a small, and suspect tree with sun rotted webbing. Belay here, but probably not off the tree, there is a wide crack just below the next bulge that will take 3 or 4 inch pieces.

Pitch 3: 5.7+ climb upwards and trend right until you see a fixe hanger and bolt. Clip this and climb up and follow three or four more bolts through some moves above it. These bolts are all missing hangers and nuts, so bring some stoppers to sling them. Belay from the Anchor at the top of sunshine.

Laugh at the throngs of people stuck on Sunshine, and walk down following the trail to the left.


To the left of Sunshine Ridge Proper


gear to 2"


C. Williams
the Climber Cave
C. Williams   the Climber Cave
Finding this is a fun little adventure! The bottom pitches are ok but the real fun starts at that blue button head. The upper pitches have some of the best rock on the highway! The upper two pitches can also be accessed by climbing Sunshine Ridge to the boulder belay and then traversing left until you spot the blue hanger. Mar 10, 2015
Nick B
Anchorage, AK
Nick B   Anchorage, AK
Best of the sunshine variations. A highway classic. Jul 29, 2018

More About Unknown 5.8+ "Blue Hanger Route"