Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: Chris Pegelo, Dave Zieleniewski
Page Views: 2,420 total · 21/month
Shared By: Matt Looby on Jun 11, 2014 · Updates
Admins: Dave Rone

You & This Route

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Warning Access Issue: From the OAC website, climbing at Lion's Head is "Tolerated: Climbing access not formally permitted, but informally accepted. Tread lightly." DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Rappel to the ground as for Maneline (or approach at the base). Pitch 1 starts in a dihedral on the west (climber's right) side of the Lion's Head lookout (10m left of Maneline). The pitch ends on a ledge to the left, Do Not Climb The Bolts To The Right In The Chimney! Pitch 2 starts with making a long traverse left, at least 12m. To top out on the lookout keep climbing left and up following the far placed bolts to the top. Be prepared for lots of hikers congratulating/asking questions as you pull over the edge.

The massive traverse on the second pitch makes this route difficult, exciting, and a very mentally challenging climb for both leader and follower; a fall off this pitch by either will put you in space. Make sure you have ascending gear and know how to use it.

Protection Suggest change