PRINT: Rock Climb Queue de Lion, Ontario

Queue de Lion

5.8, Sport,

Avg: 2.7 from 19 votes
FA: Judy Barnes, Elizabeth Taylor
International > N America > Canada > Ontario > Ontario S Bould… > Lion's Head > Maneline Wall

Access Issue: From the OAC website, climbing at Lion's Head is "Tolerated: Climbing access not formally permitted, but informally accepted. Tread lightly." Details

From the OAC website, climbing at Lion's Head is "Tolerated as a non-conforming use of the park. Highly sensitive area. Strive for minimal impact and low profile. All fixed protection to be camouflaged. Do not disturb the cottagers. Approach via Bruce Trail entrance.
Good mix of sport and trad, starting at higher grades mostly 5.10 and above. Some routes have anchors. Some routes start from ground, others from hanging belay. Approach is from top; rap in. Extremely complex the first visit."

Description

**Note: It has been suggested that this route be removed. First 4 bolts are missing and the rock is actively crumbling up until halfway up the wall. Not safe for climbing and the cliff should be preserved. No longer the 5.8 it used to be.** Rappel near the west (hiker's left) end of the wall to reach this hanging belay. Climb the slab start to a more vertical middle and finish on this excellent moderate.

Protection

Hanging belay and 8 bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Belle and Derrick on Queue de Lion

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Oscar Fate
Philadelphia, PA

Spicy exposure on the starting traverse moves. Aug 27, 2014