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Routes in Twitch Rock

Dream Variation, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
G'Owen Rogue S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Prowler S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Stone Cold KiLLaz S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Twitch S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Prep: Jason Baker, FFA: Mark Anderson, June 11, 2014
Page Views: 3,471 total, 83/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Jun 11, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Prowler rides the blunt buttress of black schist that forms the left edge of the cresting wave of Twitch Rock. With athletic, gym-style slaps between large slopers, prolific shade, and a trivial approach, this line has the potential to become the most popular 5.14 in Clear Creek Canyon. The route lacks the fingery crimps or stopper cruxes of many of the canyon's other hard lines, making this a great choice for a first 5.14 project. While the rock quality is not ideal, the line boasts sneaky good position, movement, and continuity--Clear Creek Power Endurance at its finest.

Big jugs lead to a good ledge below the third bolt. The hardest single move is a long reach to an incut, 1-pad edge at the fourth bolt, but the redpoint crux is linking the ensuing string of 10-or-so consecutive slaps and hooking moves to turn the lip of the curling wave.

Location

Prowler climbs the obvious prow right of Twitch.

Protection

6 bolts to a hidden 2-bolt anchor over the lip of the cliff (bring long draws for this to avoid shredding your rope).
Nolan Robertson
  5.13d
Nolan Robertson  
  5.13d
This has got to be one of the most fun sport routes. Easy juggy climbing till you're safely off the deck. Followed by crazy heeltoe cams and desperate compression, more heelhooks, and even a desperate lunge at the end to finish it off. Feb 4, 2017
Trevor V.
Santa Barbara, Ca
 
Trevor V.   Santa Barbara, Ca
 
The perma-draws are great. Thanks for putting them up.

What other climbs compare in difficulty to this? Any recommendations in Clear Creek/Denver/Boulder area? Sep 18, 2016
RYAN NELSON
Golden
  5.13d
RYAN NELSON   Golden
  5.13d
Checked out he left finish into Twitch, and it did not seem worth it to me. Huge jugs which I don't think would add any difficulty and weird rope drag. Sep 8, 2015
RYAN NELSON
Golden
  5.13d
RYAN NELSON   Golden
  5.13d
Super fun power endurance. I am also curious about the extension out left into the Twitch anchors. Has anybody given that a go? Aug 22, 2015
Train4life
Boulder, CO
  5.14a
Train4life   Boulder, CO
  5.14a
Matt,

Thanks for the proper anchor...it looks great and makes clipping the anchor much more enjoyable! I will replace the hardware with permadraws the next time out there! Thanks, guys! I am only going to replace the middle 4 draws. I think everyone can clip the fist two and shouldn't be falling here.

-Chris- Nov 14, 2014
mlloyd
denver
  5.13d
mlloyd   denver
  5.13d
Since I've been climbing on this route so much, I thought I would add a proper anchor. The original anchors where two regular bolts, are oddly placed above the lip. I added chain to get them over the lip, quicklinks and biners... all dialed out now.

I sent this rig today after a bunch of tries... 18 to be exact. Obviously I'm not a power climber. I'm not sure, I think it could be a little soft when compared to Interstellar and Shine. The route feels about the same difficulty as Grim Aura at Primo, so 13d?. I don't care one way or another, honestly I'm psyched to have climbed such a fun line. Just a thought.

I'm going to try and climb out left after the crux now, past Luke's anchors, all the way to the anchors of Twitch, covering new ground (a bit of a Kimbal-ism). All those are possible, and that would add 15 feet of climbing and some value.... Sep 5, 2014
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
 
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
 
Fine with me. I believe the draws fixed now belong to Jason Baker, so you might want to run it by him. Aug 18, 2014
Train4life
Boulder, CO
  5.14a
Train4life   Boulder, CO
  5.14a
Would anyone be opposed to me putting up Permadraws that are grey in color so that they blend in more with the rock. They will be 13" ClimbTech Permas that should last quite a long time and be very safe! If anyone has a problem with that, please tell me by September 1st! I will put up 3 Permadraws on bolts 3, 4, and 5...so the crux bolts; this will replace the project draws right now! Aug 18, 2014
Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
 
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
 
It goes straight up. It was originally bolted to go out left but was rebolted by the first ascentionist. Either way, you are past the crux, so it probably doesn't matter. Jul 23, 2014
Train4life
Boulder, CO
  5.14a
Train4life   Boulder, CO
  5.14a
Quick question...it doesn't seem to add too much difficulty...but does Prowler finish up and left to the anchors of the 13+ project or does it continue straight up to the random quickdraw over the roof? Jul 23, 2014
Kegan Minock
colorado springs
Kegan Minock   colorado springs
Just sent this morning, what a cool line! Matt said it was 2nd ascent? Jul 9, 2014
Train4life
Boulder, CO
  5.14a
Train4life   Boulder, CO
  5.14a
Unbelievable climbing! Cannot imagine such a short line being so fun! Excellent slapping...this is definitely going to be my first 5.14 project! Amazing! Thanks for putting up the line! :) Jul 5, 2014
Kegan Minock
colorado springs
Kegan Minock   colorado springs
It truly is a great climb to be a first 5.14 project. I tried it today with Matt, this (along with a few at New River) got me psyched to sport climb again. Jun 26, 2014
mlloyd
denver
  5.13d
mlloyd   denver
  5.13d
Nice job on this, Mark. I'm psyched about your additions to the canyon recently... we got them in the new guidebook. I went up and tried this yesterday, and I'm psyched... it's definitely my summer project. Thanks for getting this rig done! If you have a sec, I would love to pick your brain for some beta for when you climb left just after the bulge... could you PM me? Also... I have some projects that I have been trying if you're interested.... Jun 20, 2014
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
 
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
 
Many thanks to Jason Baker for discovering and equipping this line. Thanks for graciously sharing it with me, it's destined to become a Clear Creek classic! Jun 11, 2014