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Routes in Gilpin Peak

North Couloir AI2-3
Type: Ice, Alpine, 1200 ft, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 209 total · 5/month
Shared By: Timothy Place on Jun 10, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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This starts out gently at 30 degrees and sweeps up steeper and steeper as it narrows toward the top.

The top is split by rock out crops into 3 possible exits, depending the conditions and choice of exit. For example, on June 8, 2014: the left side was guarded by a large, overhanging cornice; the middle chute was 80 degree thin snow from a melted cornice; and the right side was 55-60 degrees of somewhat unconsolidated snow. At some points later in the season it is possible for the right side to be a pitch of blue water ice.

Get an early start and try to be on top by 9 AM. As the sun warms, the walls' rock releases into the couloir.


Drive up the 4WD road to Yankee Boy Basin as far as you can. Then boot up as far as possible. Crampons are likely to be needed at some point if you are early in the season.

The route starts at the obvious couloir sweeping up the north side of the mountain from Yankee Boy Basin, opposite Sneffels.

Descend via the standard route.


Depending on conditions toward the top, you may want a couple of pickets or an ice screw.



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