Type: Trad, 45 ft (14 m)
FA: Michael Zarnowski & Nick Benedix
Page Views: 737 total · 6/month
Shared By: Mike Zarnowski on Jun 10, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

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Description Suggest change

A great route showcasing typical climbing at the park. There are now two bolts replacing the piton and small cam at the crux if this route. Very well protected climbing the whole way.  

Jam up an 8 foot perfect hand crack, swing over right and mantle to a ledge. Step up left towards a thin left leaning crack and carefully get in a piece of gear (I think a red c3 did the trick). Commit to the crack, clip a piton and move left on worsening holds until you're at a mono crimp. Another big move left finds juggy climbing back right up a crack to a bolted anchor. Lower off.

Stepping into the crux crack can be a little spooky on this one but the holds are good to start and once the piton is clipped the crux is about as well protected as it gets, small falls.

Location Suggest change

Five feet left of Ride the Turtle.

Protection Suggest change

I used cams, A #2 BD goes in at you're feet on the ledge. The final crack cannot be seen from the ground and takes a .75 or so.