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Routes in Eagle Rock

Awesome looking sport route! S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Scoop, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stud + two bolts S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Top Rope TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 1 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unknown 2 S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Unknown 3 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Sport, 50 ft, Grade V
FA: unknown
Page Views: 374 total, 9/month
Shared By: Jared Moore on Jun 9, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Another fun route with balancy moves. Basically, this climb is the .10c's little brother. Crux around the 2nd to 3rd bolt, where the holds get sparse. Climbing eases up just as you get to the roof. Nice fun moves to pull the roof.

Location

This climb is the right-most bolted route with a roof found about 35 ft. up.

The wall (east-facing) receives morning sun but is fully shaded by 1:15ish in the summer. It can be located by turning right from the beginning of the main trail and cutting slightly uphill until reaching the base of the wall. There is a very faint trail leading up but tread lightly, as the area is very duffy and fragile. The main face is very light orange and looks like junky rock, but it's actually solid, for the most part.

Protection

5 bolts, chains (shared with the 5.10c)

Photos

Tony Lobay
  5.10a
Tony Lobay  
  5.10a
Hoping to go back some time and check out the extension out the headwall. I could see one or two shiny bolts up there. My partner wasn't so psyched about the loose rock and it was getting dark. Overall the lower part felt like 10a, but I had a cold, a jacked up shoulder, and a huge burrito dinner.

And yeah, don't pull hard on the epoxy job. Jul 19, 2017
Jared Moore
Tahoe City, CA
 
Jared Moore   Tahoe City, CA
 
So...there are a few bolts that go up from the first anchor. There used to be a proper 2-bolt anchor up above the first shared anchor, however, the last time I was there, one bolt has somehow disappeared. The climbing is somewhat sketchy, but there are actually bolts that go all the way up to the top. In fact, there is a 2-bolt anchor at the top of the upper bolt line of the head wall. I haven't tried that, but if you are feeling adventurous, it does go to the top. Aug 1, 2015
Road
Stanton
  5.8
Road   Stanton
  5.8
easy and short.

soft ball sized hold just below clip 3, I think it was 3, is loose. Looks like someone tried to fix it with some epoxy but it hasn't worked. It held me and my partner but be careful and let your belay know you might be pulling off a decent rock so they can stand in the right spot to avoid getting nailed.

decently fun pulling onto the ledge but a lot of dirt/pebbles in the dish it forms.

says it shares chains with the route to its left, but there is a bolt or two 20 feet above the "last" bolt for this route. I wanted to investigate but didn't feel like down climbing if it went up 30 feet and then stopped (which I suspect it does). Aug 1, 2015