Type: Trad, 230 ft
FA: Lance Milo Cagle
Page Views: 634 total · 12/month
Shared By: Milo on Jun 8, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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7 Opinions

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Description

This route is mostly a 5.6 dihedral, perfect for a starting leader. The climb starts on a dihedral slab that goes through a small roof down low at the 2nd bolt.(5.9) A few more slab moves get you to a great stance and easier terrain. Climb a beautiful 5.6 dihedral til it pinches off. Step out left and follow easy face (5.2)? past a bolt to the summit of Sweetie pillar. 2 raps with a 70m rope.

Location

Follow hiking directions for PSOM slabs. Fork left just before reaching the toe of the PSOM buttress. Watchtower is on the next buttress directly left of PSOM buttress, and Sweetie is just uphill from that.
Also just uphill from Gold Wall.

Protection

5 draws and a single rack up to #2 Camalot. Bring a few extra cams if your a newer leader. It's a long pitch.

Photos

Steve Gomez  
 
Climbed this last week, pretty fun little route, still needs a bit of clean up, but the climbing is fun! Oct 21, 2014
Morgan Nutting
Bishop, CA
Morgan Nutting   Bishop, CA
Fun route, didn't read the topo, thought it was a bolted route so I barely brought any gear, which made it more fun, good job Milo. Jun 1, 2015
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.9
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.9
two star rating for the first pitch only. 2nd pitch is not worth doing imho. watch tower is far better overall. recommend replacement of biners at anchors with rings or musseys.

i think that the beginning leader might have a tough time making it to that first bolt. Jun 10, 2015
Feel free to go on up there and put mussy hooks on the anchors. However, carabiners in good condition are no less safe to lower or rappel off of. Jun 12, 2015
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.9
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.9
Sounds good. I'll throw some rings on the P1 anchors next time I'm there.
Note that there's a distinction between rapping and lowering in terms of wear and tear on anchors. Not much of a factor on routes that aren't that popular, but a serious problem (even with steel hardware) on crowded lines (Gorge, Warming Wall, etc.). Jun 12, 2015
So do you just dislike the single biner system? Because a single biner IN GOOD CONDITION is no less safe than a mussy. While the number of times it can be lowered on is fewer than a mussy, I highly doubt that will be an issue on this route for many years. In fact I would argue that adding rap rings makes it less safe on a route in which people will be lowering from due to the fact that untying and retying through the rap rings introduces the possibility of error.
So then, if you have some kind of personal vendetta against single carabiners on each hanger, I suggest that you spend your own money to replace them with mussy hooks. But not with rap rings for the reasons stated above. Jun 12, 2015
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.9
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.9
personally i like rings better than mussys, but i've used both on my routes. if you want mussys, i'll throw some mussys on the int. anchor next time i'm up there. Jun 14, 2015
Herm Harrison
Bishop, CA
  5.8+
Herm Harrison   Bishop, CA
  5.8+
This is a fun, non-scary easy for the grade climb with a cool position on a narrow buttress that cleaves a giant gully. It actually gets a little more shade than most routes in the area. The top could be a bit cleaner, but it is a unique feature that will clean up with some traffic. It can be done as 2 pitches utilizing the mid pitch rap anchor, but be aware this anchor is to the left of the corner, you can miss it if you are myopic enough. Not worthy of bragging rights, but still a fun romp. Sep 9, 2018