The Free Hallucinogen Wall
Trad, 12 pitches,
Avg: 4 from 4
FA: Hansjoerg, Aug. 2011
> Black Canyon of…
> N Rim Routes
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The Free Hallucinogen Wall is fully MEGA! The climbing is unique, thoughtful, wildly exposed and just plain fun. As far as big wall free routes, this is one of the best in the country.
The "R" rating is totally dependent on the integrity of the fixed gear. On many of the pithes, your only protection is fixed copperheads, nuts, and pitons. The climbing is exciting, and large run-outs are to be expected. This route deserves respect. If going ground-up, you want to be a solid, 5.12+ onsight climber. A ground up effort would make the overall experience harder and much more committing.
Everyone that I know who has done the route has rappelled in from the top and worked many of the pitches on top-rope (including myself). With chalk on the holds and knowledge of the climbing, the H-Wall is very reasonable.
P1-P3. Start on a big, right-leaning ramp, 240 feet of 5.8. The next few pitches are blue collar 5.10+ Black Canyon climbing.
P4. Climb up a corner above belay, and traverse left under a small roof. Continue up 5.11 face climbing to fixed sling. Traverse left on thin holds to another bolt. 5.12- downclimbing gains Fantasy Island.
P5. Awesome, 5.12- face climbing protected by bolts to a thin corner (sometimes wet) past a small roof. Easy climbing leads to an aid anchor, keep climbing on 5.11R to a two bolt anchor at a nice stance.
P6. This pitch has wild face climbing with lots of fixed copperheads. A very cool 5.12+ arch is the crux. Belay at a shitty hanging stance on bolts.
P7. Next up is more run-out 5.12+ climbing with bolts and fixed heads. There are several crux sections separated by good rests. Belay at a nice ledge with bolts.
P8. An awkward 5.12 boulder problem protected by a bolt leads to maybe the most dangerous move on the route. Clip a copperhead that has been driven into a bolt hole, and do a tricky 5.12 move to a jug rail. If this heads rips, there are some ledges that you could hit. Continue up 5.11R corner, and traverse right to the belay ledge.
P9. Awesome 5.12 climbing with fixed heads to a big roof traverse out right on jugs. Bust out of the roof and onto a stunning face that is protected by bolts. Ascend thin, pumpy, and totally fun 5.13- to a shitty hanging belay just bellow a huge roof.
P10. Pull around the roof and traverse hard right on 5.12- terrain. Look for a two bolt anchor with a good foot ledge, this is the best place to belay for the crux pitch.
P11. The money pitch! There are three very different crux sections on this pitch. All of the hardest moves are well-protected by bolts. The last 30 feet is the hardest and very condition dependent. If you catch this pitch while it's in the shade or on a cloudy day, it makes a HUGE difference. Belay at small stance on bolts, 5.13b/c.
P12. Ascend very steep, 5.12- R climbing past a roof to some run-out 5.10 climbing. Belay on bolts on a good ledge.
P13. Finish with horrible, 5.10 R groveling to the top.
Single set from #00 - #4, set of wires and 25 draws. You end of clipping so much fixed gear that you need lots of draws.
One of the many fixed heads on the H-Wall. Andrew Burr photo.
Nik Berry styles pitch 12. Andrew Burr photo.
Nik Berry on pitch 6. Andrew Burr photo.
Steep climbing on the start of the crux pitch. Andrew Burr photo.
Nearing the top of pitch 7. Andrew Burr photo.