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Routes in Upper Crag

Doctore S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dream Team S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Evaristo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Junior S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mimosin S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Teletubi S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 33 total, 1/month
Shared By: burboeck on Jun 6, 2014
Admins: Jason Halladay

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Description

The guidebook lists this climb as a 5.9, but it climbs very very easy for that grade - perhaps the easiest on the wall. A 5.8 at best, and though there may not be a discernible crux, it is still a nice route with some smooth moves.

It's on a chalk-white section of the wall with a lower off that seems to be an old just an old white rope between two bolt and a seized-up old carabiner.

Location

This climb is right where the path to the crag arrives at the wall. It is the 5th bolted route from the left. There is something of a clearing near the bottom, and this route climbs up from the left side of that clearing.

There is a noticeable hole in the wall near the bottom, right where the lower gray limestone meets the white limestone that ascends to the top. Mimosin's bolts run just left of that hole (2nd bolt is at the hole).


Protection

6 bolts to an anchor with 2 bolts tied together with an off-white rope next to a brown and gray depression easily visible from the ground.

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