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Stuart Arete
V5,
Boulder,
Avg: 3.8 from 15
votes
FA: Chris Redmond
New Jersey
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Description
Sit start with your right hand on a bad sloper and left hand on a vaguely ball-like sloper. There are several options for getting to the pinch, some involving a barely-there sloper intermediate, and some involving a powerful and extended gaston. Once you wrap the jug with your right hand, it's pretty much in the bag (assuming you can climb The Wave stand).
The ideal conditions for an ascent of this sloper testpiece are a crisp 80-degree day in June, with full humidity, and nursing a hangover from Princeton Reunions. While we conservatively grade this problem V8, there have been murmurs that the true grade is closer to V10. To those murmurers I say: Thank you. You're very kind.
Protection
Pads.
[Hide Photo] My right foot is on the starting right hand, and you can vaguely see the chalk spot for the left hand just above it.
vimeo.com/164026206 Apr 24, 2016
HAMILTON, NJ
Normally I'd assume that such a large grade discrepancy would have to result from a difference in route (maybe that is indeed the case) but the description on here, and the one in the Redmond guide, are consistent with the V5 climb shown in the video. Nov 23, 2016
San Francisco, CA
Boston, MA