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Stuart Arete

V5, Boulder,  Avg: 3.8 from 15 votes
FA: Chris Redmond
New Jersey > d. Mid-state > bouldering mid… > Witherspoon Woods Bou…

Description

Sit start with your right hand on a bad sloper and left hand on a vaguely ball-like sloper. There are several options for getting to the pinch, some involving a barely-there sloper intermediate, and some involving a powerful and extended gaston. Once you wrap the jug with your right hand, it's pretty much in the bag (assuming you can climb The Wave stand).

The ideal conditions for an ascent of this sloper testpiece are a crisp 80-degree day in June, with full humidity, and nursing a hangover from Princeton Reunions. While we conservatively grade this problem V8, there have been murmurs that the true grade is closer to V10. To those murmurers I say: Thank you. You're very kind.

Protection

Pads.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Stuart Arete
[Hide Photo] Stuart Arete
Charles on stuart arete
[Hide Photo] Charles on stuart arete
My right foot is on the starting right hand, and you can vaguely see the chalk spot for the left hand just above it.
[Hide Photo] My right foot is on the starting right hand, and you can vaguely see the chalk spot for the left hand just above it.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

JD Bagert
  V5
[Hide Comment] This climb is also called Stuart Arete. The grading on this is way off - it's a solid V5.

vimeo.com/164026206 Apr 24, 2016
Anna Cook
HAMILTON, NJ
[Hide Comment] I think the V8 version is right up the top rather than up onto the face of the other side. The way you climb it is definitely V5, but the V8 is different than your version. Still a sweet climb either way! Sep 21, 2016
JD Bagert
  V5
[Hide Comment] You're right that topping out left is harder, but I don't think it's changing the grade. The original posters describe this route as the sit-start version of a V3 climb (The Wave) with the same finish. The route is also listed in the Redmond guide as V5 - which felt about right when I climbed it.

Normally I'd assume that such a large grade discrepancy would have to result from a difference in route (maybe that is indeed the case) but the description on here, and the one in the Redmond guide, are consistent with the V5 climb shown in the video. Nov 23, 2016
Rajiv Ayyangar
San Francisco, CA
  V5
[Hide Comment] I've changed the grade. Perhaps it was a bit exuberant - in the past few years I'd only tried it with a buddy at reunions. It feels fully v8 in the summer heat while nursing a hangover. Nice send! Dec 20, 2016
Will S
Boston, MA
  V6
[Hide Comment] I disagree with Chris’ rating on this one. Maybe it’s just not my style, but to me it’s harder than the cave problem and feels at least V6. Nov 17, 2019